Snow to ice gully for a couple of pitches. Longer ice pitch than it looks. Couple of options available. Stay in the corner all the way to the top (can be very thin in places near the top), or, part way up the last pitch, step left onto the face and climb up then around left of a rock bulge and back right to the top of the ice gully at its top (below the low angle snow gully above).
Note: route basically follows the summer time rock climbing route of the same name.
Left side of the Triangle Wall. Gully is behind the Commitment Buttress. Take care with any avy concerns (very hard to escape if a slide came down). Hopefully snow conditions will be neve in the gully, and on the approach too.
Ice screws and pins for pro (additional rock gear may be prudent depending on how thick the ice is). Was a fixed piton on the left side rock wall, about 2/3 of the way up (old clog?). Belay anchors consisting of slings on blocks in the corner. Anchor at top on either side of the gully (we used the one to the right from the tree as it was easy to see that it was ok, sorta). We rappelled the route with a single 60m rope: 3 rappels.
BETA PHOTO: Approach pitch to Cocoa Puffs.
BETA PHOTO: First belay on Cocoa Puffs (also rap anchor: slin...
Cocoa Puffs left hand face variation. B Smoot on ...