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Coco Puffs 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Witt Boy
Page Views: 1,671
Submitted By: Chuck Parks on Jan 31, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (52)
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Easy climb

Description 

A sport route that also makes a good beginner trad lead. Climb the face just left of the corner/crack to meet up with the corner. Continue up the corner past a steep section, then out the right face of the corner to anchors.


Location 

Starts in a left-facing corner, to the right of the Comic Reliefs and Pit.


Protection 

sport: 6 bolts, anchors

trad: light rack, hands to fingers, anchors



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By ryan baxter
Oct 8, 2008

hollow blocks before last bolt actually seem solid. be mindful, as they do flex when weighted. without these holds, the moves seem unlikely

By TKHouse
Apr 4, 2010

Fun climb to "go nuts" on. Ditch the cams! A set of stoppers is all you need for a light and enjoyable trad climb at South Clear.

The hollow flake at the top seems to be very near the point of breaking off, although I'm told its been that way for a few years. Ensure your belayer has a helmet on and is very attentive during the last few moves.

By DurtGrrl
Nov 21, 2010

FWIW - The hollow blocks below the last bolt are still there, but seemed sketchy. Without those, the moves are less than fun (I led it but relied on the belayer a bit much and mantled over to the ledge - ugly!).

By Mike Lambino
From: Jasper, Ga
Feb 28, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Doesn't feel like 5.7 when you exclude the X'ed out blocks. Last climb of the day, nice surprise at the end.

By Cody Ashe
Dec 31, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Very Cool route, think its tougher tan a 5.7, but still a very cool route.

By Jeff Edge
Mar 13, 2013

Always harder than I remember it being, usually just do it for old time's sake while I'm here. Fun route for anyone, really.