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Feudal Wall (Left Side)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Block, The 
Castrum, The 
Chessboard, The 
Court Jester 
Coyote In the Bushes 
Crown Jewels 
Drawbridge, The 
Duchess Left 
Duchess Pitch 2 Variation 
Duchess Right 
La Reina 
Not Just another Pretty Face 
Paper or Plastic? 
Pocket Pool 
Route 1326 


YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bill Todd and Rosie, November 1986
Page Views: 431
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2005
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Coco Loco.
Photo by Blitzo.


Climb an easy but interesting thin crack/corner to a horizontal crack (medium pro here) where a traverse slightly right gives access to the upper portion of the route - a seam to face with a bolt. The crux moves past the bolt are balancy and tenuous and involve edges, sidepulls and overall insecurity - think classic Josh style climbing. Large cams are handy for an anchor in a grainy, flared horizontal crack 10' above the ledge where this finishes.

A fun climb that while seldom done is worthy of more attention. One star out of five.


This route is located on the left edge of the face with Crown Jewels and lies roughly 15' right of The Castrum.


bolt (3/8"), pro to 3.5"

Photos of Coco-Loco Slideshow Add Photo
"Coco Loco" <br />Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Coco Loco"
Photo by Blitzo.
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