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 ADVANCED
Feudal Wall (Left Side)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Block, The T 
Castrum, The T 
Chessboard, The T 
Coco-Loco T 
Court Jester T 
Coyote In the Bushes T 
Crown Jewels T 
Drawbridge, The TR 
Duchess T 
Duchess Left T 
Duchess Pitch 2 Variation T 
Duchess Right T 
La Reina T 
Marchesa T 
Monaco S 
Not Just another Pretty Face T 
Paper or Plastic? T 
Pocket Pool S 
Route 1326 T 
Scaramouch T 
Swishbah T 

Coco-Loco 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bill Todd and Rosie, November 1986
Page Views: 484
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Coco Loco. Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

Climb an easy but interesting thin crack/corner to a horizontal crack (medium pro here) where a traverse slightly right gives access to the upper portion of the route - a seam to face with a bolt. The crux moves past the bolt are balancy and tenuous and involve edges, sidepulls and overall insecurity - think classic Josh style climbing. Large cams are handy for an anchor in a grainy, flared horizontal crack 10' above the ledge where this finishes.

A fun climb that while seldom done is worthy of more attention. One star out of five.

Location 

This route is located on the left edge of the face with Crown Jewels and lies roughly 15' right of The Castrum.

Protection 

bolt (3/8"), pro to 3.5"


Photos of Coco-Loco Slideshow Add Photo
"Coco Loco" Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Coco Loco" Photo by Blitzo.

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