This generally shady area has two EXCELLENT sport routes and two (o.k.) Trad routes. Worth a visit to climb them all in a day!! The route lenghts in the Brock/McMillan book for the two trad routes are VERY incorrect and will require walk offs that are pretty easy.
The approach is super easy and should take about 10-15 minutes. Follow the trail from the west side of the Red Springs Picnic Parking Area in Calico Basin; follow the trail up toward the obvious unbroken cliff straight west. Pick up a trail and head for the large shady area just to the right of the Classic Corner of Calico Area. Super easy to find, just start hiking up the trail up the hill and the wall will appear on your left hand side.
Browse More Classics in Coco Crag
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Coco Crag:
Adventure Guppies 5.8- Sport, 2 pitches, 140 feet
Coco Puffs 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet
Moon Where the Wind Blows 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet
Cocopuss 5.10a/b Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Stupid Cat 5.10d Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet
Featured Route For Coco Crag
Cocopuss 5.10a/b NV : Red Rock : ... : Coco Crag
This is an EXCELLENT sport route on the left side of the Coco Crag about 3 feet right of the obvious chimney. Varied movements; great protection; and climbing that is much steeper than it appears from the ground; as good as any sport route in Red Rocks at the grade IMHO. Brock guidebook says 10b but it might be 10a'ish??...[more] Browse More Classics in NV