Cockwork Orange  5.10d

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet Consensus:  5.11a [details] FA:  Bradshaw and Smith Submitted By:  Monomaniac on May 24, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Chuck on Cockwork Orange.

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Description 

This stout number begins above a talus covered shelf. A steep overhang right off the ground provides the brief crux of powerful and sequential pockets. Beware of the 2-finger sucker side pull at the start that could easily cause a severe injury. Instead use the large but less-deep 3 finger dish up and right. A long move leads to a good jug, then a devious crux move leads to more jugs, and fun cruising on good crimps to the anchor.

Location 

Furthest left (east) route in the "main" poultrygeist area. That is, there are two routes on the far left (east) end of this section of cliff (Cha cha and Cock Star), then a 50 yd break with no routes, then a grouping of 8 bolted routes. This route is the furthest left in this group of 8.

Do not begin this route directly or from the right. The shelf at the base is covered with numerous heinous death blocks waiting to assault unsuspecting climbers. Instead, start from the far left, and traverse right onto the shelf below B1.

Protection 

4 Bolts, 2 bolt quick-clip anchor.