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Poultrygeist Area
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Cockwork Orange 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bradshaw and Smith
Page Views: 301
Submitted By: Monomaniac on May 24, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Chuck on Cockwork Orange.

Description 

This stout number begins above a talus covered shelf. A steep overhang right off the ground provides the brief crux of powerful and sequential pockets. Beware of the 2-finger sucker side pull at the start that could easily cause a severe injury. Instead use the large but less-deep 3 finger dish up and right. A long move leads to a good jug, then a devious crux move leads to more jugs, and fun cruising on good crimps to the anchor.

Location 

Furthest left (east) route in the "main" poultrygeist area. That is, there are two routes on the far left (east) end of this section of cliff (Cha cha and Cock Star), then a 50 yd break with no routes, then a grouping of 8 bolted routes. This route is the furthest left in this group of 8.

Do not begin this route directly or from the right. The shelf at the base is covered with numerous heinous death blocks waiting to assault unsuspecting climbers. Instead, start from the far left, and traverse right onto the shelf below B1.

Protection 

4 Bolts, 2 bolt quick-clip anchor.


Comments on Cockwork Orange Add Comment
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By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
May 24, 2007

This felt to me like a big-time sandbag, but I may have been tired.
By Scott Beguin
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 26, 2007

FA was R. Bradshaw and R. Smith
By Robin
From: Albuquerque, NM
Mar 10, 2008

Yeah this felt a little hard for 10d to me as well. I found the crux to be only one move however. I liked the route quite a bit though, I think it had fun moves...

Agreed Anthony (comment below) this route is reachy. I was able to reach everything but I am tall ish and had to stretch for some holds...
By Anthony Stout
Administrator
From: Albuquerque, NM
Apr 6, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Agreed, felt more difficult than rated. Would be even more difficult for shorter people. Long and reachy moved definitely favor those with a longer reach.