This area is not new. The bouldering has yet to be listed in mountainproject. This is just the beginning of the bouldering, which seems to see little traffic. The information within drtopo.com for this area and with Tyler McMillen's guide "Tucson Bouldering" are a great reference point for this area. They just touch the surface, as this vast area, known for its sport and trad routes eclipses the bouldering. That being said, the bouldering is extensive, just under-looked. The rock features beautiful contrasts between the granite and the green and black/grey lichen. A combination of abrasive to slick pad friendly and pad-eating rock is in abundance.
See information for driving from the main Cochise Stronghold page. To reach the campground boulders is easy: The classic Bob Murray problem "The North Face of Firepit Rock(V8)and (V9), is just right of the park pay station on the left facing flake. The variations depend if you start with a cheat stone or start at the obvious left-hand undercling. Just before the pay station are a few boulders, by the split "one way only" signs that support a few high-quality routes on a road-side boulder with high-ball down-climbs The classic left-leaning crack(V4, since a key hold broke 70% up the route) and sit-start dihedral(V/3) are just past the bathrooms and right about 25 yards(there are also some slabs and other faces there) -The streambed/trailside boulders seem virtually undeveloped, with only two-dozen or so listed routes in the guides. To get here, follow the "walk of nature trail loop", either right or left, until you run into the Cochise Trail. Follow the Cochise Trail, up and right until you reach boulders directly off the trail. These are the main close concentration of close boulders. There are about two-doven obviously developed problems, with room for an abundance of aesthetic seemingly undeveloped routes just up the hill at the bottom of the streambed. Please enjoy and bring a few crashpads.
A beautiful 20+ foot line up the obvious overhanging face of the large boulder next to the pay station. The route starts on a left hand undercling, right hand on any of the left-facing pinches. Lunge right hand to the top pinch crimp, set you feet and pop left hand to the obvious shark tooth edge, right hand to the gaston and then up to the chickenhead horn and then a simple toss to the seam over the lip...short easy slab to follow. V8 from a cheat stone(original version), V9 from the obvious le...[more]Browse More Classics in AZ
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