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Cochise Crack 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
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Page Views: 121
Submitted By: K Baumgartner on Oct 6, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Protects decently even if you don't have large gea...

Seasonal Raptor Closures.

Description 

Dihedral with an offwidth crack to the left and some smaller placements to the right. Easy 5.5ish climbing to the roof. Crux is just above roof topping out at the Metolius anchors.

Location 

About 20 feet right of 3 consecutive roofs. Look for the right facing, off-width crack.

Protection 

Small nuts to a #4.


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The white stuff isn't chalk.
The white stuff isn't chalk.

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By K Baumgartner
Oct 6, 2012

I wish I had taken a 4" piece for the off-width, but fortunately there were ample placements in the dihedral crack on the right side. Fun moves pulling the roof and then topping out on crimpers and smeary feat.

Business end of the climb is topping out above the roof with really no viable pro placements. Definitely a thought provoking section, but once you find the holds, grab and go.
By Russell Fogle
From: Boise, ID
Oct 19, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

If you love bird shit this is your route! Wait 'til early spring when the winter washes it all off.
By S.Lee
Jun 7, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

You can get by without the #4 by placing gear in the right side. Found an ok small cam and nut placement right before the crux. The bird crap isn't bad.