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Cocaine 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Leonard Coyne, Ken Sims, Ed Webster, 1977
Page Views: 1,789
Submitted By: Chris R on Sep 9, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Brian Wandzilak contemplates the frictiony moves o...

Seasonal Closures - some are lifted MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Classic Garden friction climb. This line is on the left side of the Drug Wall. Start left of Silver Spoon, trend up and left on mostly easy slab towards the low end of a funky horizontal corner--step over this corner. There isn't much, if any, psychological pro you can sink before the first pin. Once that pin is achieved, though, pro is adequate. Keep moving up and slightly left past another pin or two to a friction move straight up. The tricky part of this line are the traverse moves. The line isn't direct from this point--you will step up and left again and clip a pin (use a long sling on this one), then swing back right and up on thin holds. Aim straight up for a small, right-facing flake that leads to a belay ledge and fixed chain anchors. Descent by rappel or (not recommended) downclimb the gully to the climbers right. Double ropes to the ground, unless you single-rope rappel down the gully to the Silver Spoon anchors and then to the ground from there. This is a fun and creative line for the friction feet, crimpy hold masochist. Variation: instead of the left-then-right traverse at mid-route, go straight up past a pin at 11b-ish.

Protection 

Drilled angles. First pin is a good way off the deck, but the climbing to get to it is fairly easy. Bring a couple long slings to ease rope drag.


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By Brian T. Wandzilak
Apr 15, 2003

Damn, this was one of the hardest routes I have ever been on. I expected the usual Garden slab, but this was something completely different. I don't think many people climb this because there was none of the tell-tale signs that are common markers on Garden routes. You know, chalk, black rubber marks on the rock, things that maybe give you a hint to as what direction you need to go. It was not bad until the third bolt. There you encounter a bulge slab thing that is very perplexing. It is hard to tell which direction is the best. Once past there, it does not look terrible though. A route that I will definitely try again next time that I am there. Hopefully, my next post to this route will be a succesful one.
By Dan Russell
Apr 15, 2003

I'm going on memory here, and it's been awhile, but...

Is the third bolt right at the base of a short headwall? If that's the spot I'm thinking of, you can either go straight up the bulge at 11+ or so, or traverse right into a groove thingy at easy 11. Does that sound right? I believe the bulge was added after the FA as a harder variation, but again, I'm just going on memory here. Both ways are great fun.

If you finish the pitch, do the 2nd pitch and summit as well. The 2nd pitch is fun and much easier, but a bit loose.

When I summitted that route years ago, we found a huge box of empty beer and wine bottles at the top! It was a real pain transporting them back down and to the trash!

Also, I think from the summit it's a funky downclimb on the back, through some sort of block-filled gully, instead of a rap. Again, I could be mistaken, it's been awhile.

Enjoy!
By Chris R
Jul 21, 2003

A 60m rope will reach the ground, provided you rap into the Gash.

Also, my original beta post from 2 yrs. ago confused me after re-reading it. Having done the line again last night, here's a better try: From the first pin, move up and keep trending left. Upon reaching the left-most pin, clip it with a long runner, and traverse straight right, into a small right-facing corner, then cruise upwards to the anchors.

I always enjoy this line. Seems to require a great deal more thought and contemplation than your average climb.
By Stewart M. Green
Jul 15, 2005

Cocaine has a new 3-bolt anchor. Stewart Green and Brian Shelton pulled out the funky 3-piton anchor and replaced it with modern stainless steel bolts and hardware. Thanks to Climbing Magazine and Petzl for the new safe gear!
By Michael Murphy
Aug 13, 2006
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I have to agree with the guidebooks on the rating: 5.10d. The history in the Soft Touch III book gives it an 5.11-.
By mountainmicah83
From: Colorado Springs
Jul 2, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Very balancy. I ended up accidently pushing left and squeezing across routes onto the next over. Not really a fun route.