The Cocaine Gully sits parallel to the Aggro gully to its right. The short steep walk is well worth it to get to the pumpfests found within.
The Cocaine Gully lies between the West Ship and the Morning Glory Wall. Follow a path up underneath the right side of the gigantic boulder at its mouth of the gully, then take the trails up as high as you need them.
18 Total Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Cocaine Gully
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cocaine Gully:
Deep Impact 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Armageddon 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Bloodshot 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, 90'
Freebase 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Featured Route For Cocaine Gully
The Blade 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a OR
: Smith Rock
: Cocaine Gully
Spectacular position and excellent climbing. This is the top portion of the seldom done route Slit Your Wrists (5.13b). Start on top of Skeleton Surfer. Stick clip the first bolt! Reach blindly out onto the face to find a great pocket, step across. Begin a series of funky arete moves for the first crux; considered somewhat beta-intensive. Highstep your way through the next crux and clip the anchors....[more] Browse More Classics in OR
Latest Regional Forum Messages
From: Roseburg, OR
Dec 11, 2011
Went up Cocaine this week (December 2011). The normal approach is in bad shape. There is warning tape saying the approach is closed, but people still go up. The stuff is very unconsolidated and not safe. The way up/down on lookers left is solid but 4th-ish, exposed, but solid. If you are not in proper footwear, like keens or flip-flops put your climbing shoes on!
I believe the conditions will change as more water flushes out rock. Might get better, might get worse.
By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Dec 16, 2011
The traditional approach (via the climber's right side of the gully) has been closed due to the high frequency of rockfall. The base of Vomit Launch is right at the top of it and anything knocked down by parties up there scours the tunnel and anyone in it.
There is a reasonable alternative on the extreme climber's left side of the gully which involves some maybe-exposed 4th classing, (comparable to Asterisk Pass) but has far less loose rock.