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Cocaine Gully
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Routes Sorted
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Armageddon 
Blade, The 
Bloodshot 
Bongo Fury 
Bound in Bogata 
Chicken McNuggets 
Crack Babies 
Deep Impact 
Freebase 
Hobbit's Pockets 
Powder Up the Nose 
Quest to Fire 
Slit Your Wrists 
Thieves 
Vomit Launch 

Cocaine Gully 


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Administrators: Peter Franzen, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Jan 22, 2006

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Connor on Vomit

Description 

The Cocaine Gully sits parallel to the Aggro gully to its right. The short steep walk is well worth it to get to the pumpfests found within.


Getting There 

The Cocaine Gully lies between the West Ship and the Morning Glory Wall. Follow a path up underneath the right side of the gigantic boulder at its mouth of the gully, then take the trails up as high as you need them.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cocaine Gully:
Chicken McNuggets   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Deep Impact   5.10c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Powder Up the Nose   5.10d     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Armageddon   5.11a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Vomit Launch   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Bloodshot   5.11c     Sport, 90 feet   
Freebase   5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
The Blade   5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Crack Babies   5.12b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   
Browse More Classics in Cocaine Gully

Featured Route For Cocaine Gully
Corey McCarthy styling this fine little crux festival.

Bloodshot 5.11c  OR : Smith Rock : Cocaine Gully
A motley of cruxes pepper this classic route, but it's mainly defined by its sustained, deviously circuitous character. You get everything - a tricky overhanging deadpoint (or trickier static), a thin and technical crux, a sustained finish, and a great view at the top.For such a large crag, smith is heavy on great 12's, 13's and 14's, and relatively short on world class bolted elevens. Of the (two or three) handfuls that qualify, this is absolutely one of the best. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in OR


Comments on Cocaine Gully Add Comment
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By hotlum
From: Bend, OR
Dec 11, 2011

Went up Cocaine this week (December 2011). The normal approach is in bad shape. There is warning tape saying the approach is closed, but people still go up. The stuff is very unconsolidated and not safe. The way up/down on lookers left is solid but 4th-ish, exposed, but solid. If you are not in proper footwear, like keens or flip-flops put your climbing shoes on!
I believe the conditions will change as more water flushes out rock. Might get better, might get worse.

By Max Tepfer
From: Central Oregon
Dec 16, 2011

The traditional approach (via the climber's right side of the gully) has been closed due to the high frequency of rockfall. The base of Vomit Launch is right at the top of it and anything knocked down by parties up there scours the tunnel and anyone in it.

There is a reasonable alternative on the extreme climber's left side of the gully which involves some maybe-exposed 4th classing, (comparable to Asterisk Pass) but has far less loose rock.