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Brian Holstein on Cocaine Corner.
This technical arete/face is one of the all-time classics on the Camp 4 circuit. Slap, pinch, layaway, smear, highstep and edge your way up to an insecure crux involving a weight transfer or foot dyno just before the top. A very sequential cool weather problem that sees plenty of suitors, but few ascents considering the rating.
Directly adjacent to the old paved trail that runs through the boulders above camp, across from the Wine Boulder. Downclimb the low angle slab left of Initial Friction.
There's a bad chopper block in the drop-zone that has claimed a few broken bones over the years. But, with sufficient pads (3-5) it's completely safe to bomb off the crux.
BETA PHOTO: The obvious line.
Gary Reno, late nineties.
By Andy Liu
From: Mammoth Lakes, CA
Oct 10, 2011