2014 Update: Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and all seasonal raptor closure areas on U.S. Forest Service land will be re-opened August 1, 2014 for climbing.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
This is a solid slab that will be cooler than a majority of rocks in the canyon due to its shaded north-facing location. Top access is via a trail shortly west of the rock. There are a number of enticing trad crack routes, many moderate and excellent for beginning trad leaders. Cob has a number of classic climbs on it, put up in the '50s and '60s.
East Face A. Scratch?, 12-, 1p, gear. B. Leave it of Lead It?, 12, 1p, gear. C. Racing The Sun?, 11 X, 1p, bolt, gear or TR. D. Devil's Dream, 9, 1p, 70', gear. E. Body Talk?, 9+, 1p, gear. F. Othello?, 10, 1p, gear.
About 6.1 miles up the canyon, on the south side of Boulder Canyon there's a pullout on the left side of the road beneath the rock. It's obvious. Crossing the river can be sketchy; we found it to be easiest via some rocks that are at the east edge of the pullout. Find the trail running to the right and up to the base of the rock.
This is a nice, slightly overhanging, tall face. It starts low and climbs out of the crevice, topping out above a higher landing. Crux is up high, but the fall is not too bad. Nice moves on cool holds, a great warm-up for sure. ...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
I'm not going to comment on any one particular route. From this page, if anyone pulls the drop down for the routes, you will see all the stars listed. A GREAT crag, despite the close proximaty to the road and it being so crowded.
Tried to get here on 5/30/03... Didn't happen. The traverse isn't there, and the creek is raging. Wading the creek seemed pretty much un-doable, as the water looked to be at about class II-III whitewater. This was a bummer because there was NO-ONE there... wonder why.
I ran into an employee from the Department of Transportation who told me he was going to cut the rope traverse over the creek at Cob. He said the rope is attached to State property (the gaurd rail) which is against the law. I told him to wait a few days and put up a notice explaining the situation and not leave climbers stranded on the other side. He appeared to of waited because as of yesterday (8/13) the rope was still installed. In any case, he could come back and cut it and it is probably best to move the traverse back to the tree and off the gaurd rail.
Was on the Northwest face yesterday, and it seems the big white spot in the picture where routes come together is where there is a massive 2-ton rock that is loose. I know this because I was about to set an anchor in and when I shook the TCU a little the whole damn thing moved. It's set in place well, but be aware! Cheers. brian w
I just crossed the creek on the fraying rope near Sherwood Forest and hiked down to Cob Rock. I was disturbed to find three new bolts on the face on the top pitch of Empor, near the 5.7 alternate finish. The 3rd bolt didn't have a hanger. Anyone know who put this up?
It seems rather contrived to me to put 3 bolts in at the top of a bunch of classic 5.7's and 5.8's. I happily climb the new bolted routes in the canyon, but I think it's out of place to be bolting a 20' piece of rock that you have to climb moderate routes with gear to approach. Perhaps my opinion is colored by my long time enjoyment of this, my favorite rock in the canyon.
Yahoo, Love Cob. All routes are quality!! One particular one,-I was wishing for more info of. Yesterday 6-22-07 w/ Pam Porskinak (sorry Philo I had to) I climbed up Hurley Direct (5.10- ?). Traversed into Empor (5.7ish-) and up the V-slot. From there, there are two bolts to a bolt stud. Face w/ small holds to a sloping dish (directly below the stud), I think this might be the crux (5.10+ or 5.11??). I might have made it harder, instead of using a stopper I had a maschine nut and "Lucky" bolt hanger, which I "placed" on the stud- gave it a traddier feel, clipped a draw and fell. LOL. Tim and Betheny whom I met, gave me enough motivation to do it on my second try, yet the hanger was in place at that point. I must try again, in the fashion of the first go. does any body know what it is? Culp climbed the face years ago w/o the bolts in place, but veered off to the right joining the 5.7 splitter-like crack of Empor. I think that's so cool man. That day I used the following gear for my attempt: #0.5 WC Friend (on Hurley Direct), two shoulder length slings w/ crabiners for the old pitons (on Empor), two quick draws for the bolts (on the "unknown" face), "lucky" bolthanger + the nut for it and two biners, sling and locker for tree belay, 1 pitch from ground to belay tree (60m). Super fun day.
A minor correction; many of the moderate classic lines were put up in the '50s (Empor and North Face Center) by the standard incredibles of that time! They had eyes for classic lines. Cob Rock is filled with them.
Did "Left Huge" today... onsight.... For V9? It seemed a bit soft? It would be my 1st V9 onsight.... I was thinking it was more like V8 ish or so, but who is to say for sure? It was a cool line that suited my style, but in 20 years of climbing I've never crush a V9er like I did this one.... I wounder what others may think? Good line with good shade. Fun day on good stone. Odd more info is not available on the bouldering at "Cob Rock."
There is a new rappel route from the summit. It was installed to help mitigate the degradation of the standard walk off, which is in major disrepair. There are two chain anchors near the summit, basically between the top of Empor and Northwest Corner. There is another rap station on a small ledge between those two routes for a second rappel. Two raps with one 60-meter rope gets you down.
Instead of installing a rap route over a very popular route with clusters of people trying to rap down, why not just improve the walkoff as they do in Eldo? Couple volunteers a couple days. Also the tyrolean is shit and needs more attention than the rappel.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Aug 13, 2013
Steven, there is a decent forum post going on this topic. To summarize: this is not an official trail in the eyes of the National Forest Service and getting official sanction to do such would occur on a different time scale than at Eldorado Canyon State Park. We have it so good at Eldo.
Did anyone happen to find a large purple cam or medium yellow cam on Empor or North Face Center on Cob Rock in the last 2 weeks? Or is anyone planning on climbing there in the next few days? Please email me if you said yes to either of these! Thanks!