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Cob Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aid Crack T 
Brownies In The Basin T,S 
Corn on the Cob T,S 
Crystal Arete 
Devil's Dream T 
East Crack T 
Empor T 
Empor Scary Variant T 
Face Problem 
Face Route T,TR 
Game, The 
Goat, The T,TR 
Headless Horseman, The 
Hug, The 
Hurley Direct T 
Huston Crack T 
Indistinction T,S 
Left Huge aka The Hug Left 
Mantle Arete 
Ms. Fanny Le Pump T 
Night Vision T,S 
North Face Center T 
North Face Left T 
Northwest Corner T 
Othello T 
Right Crack T 
Sleepy Hollow 
South Crack (Unknown) T 
Thunder Road S 
Under The Boardwalk 
Unknown T 
West Cracks T 
West Dihedral T 
West Rib T 
Unsorted Routes:

Cob Rock  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 6,650'
Location: 40.0005, -105.3895 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 143,766
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001
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Description 

This is a solid slab that will be cooler than a majority of rocks in the canyon due to its shaded north-facing location. Top access is via a trail shortly west of the rock. There are a number of enticing trad crack routes, many moderate and excellent for beginning trad leaders. Cob has a number of classic climbs on it, put up in the '50s and '60s.

L->R

East Face
A. Scratch?, 12-, 1p, gear.
B. Leave it of Lead It?, 12, 1p, gear.
C. Racing The Sun?, 11 X, 1p, bolt, gear or TR.
D. Devil's Dream, 9, 1p, 70', gear.
E. Body Talk?, 9+, 1p, gear.
F. Othello?, 10, 1p, gear.

North Face
G. Ms. Fanny Le- Pump, 11, 1p, gear.
H. Indistinction, 7+, 1p, gear.
I. Right Crack, 6, 1p, gear.
K. Night Vision, 10 PG-13, 2p, gear & bolts.
L. Huston Crack, 9-, 1p, 60', gear.
M. Aid Crack, 10+ R, 1p, 60', gear.
N. Face Route 11- X, 1p, 60', gear.
O. The Goat, 9, 1p, gear.
P. East Crack, 10-, 2p, gear.
Q. North Face Left, 8-, 2p, 210', gear.
R. North Face Center, 7+, 2p, 210', gear.
S. Empor, 8-, 2p, 210', gear.

Northwest bit
T. Variation, 9 R, 2p, 210', gear.
U. Northwest Corner, 8, 2p, 200', gear.
West Face
V. Hurley Direct, 10-, 2p, gear.
W. Brownies in The Basin, 9+ X, now 9+, 1-2p, bolts & gear.
X. West Crack?, 9+, 2p, gear.
Y. West Rib, 8, 2p, gear.
Z. West Dihedral, 8, 2p, gear.
AA. Upper West Face, ?
BB. Thunder Road, 12-, 1p, 70', bolts.
CC. Corn on the Cob, 10, 1p, 70', bolts.

Getting There 

About 6.1 miles up the canyon, on the south side of Boulder Canyon there's a pullout on the left side of the road beneath the rock. It's obvious. Crossing the river can be sketchy; we found it to be easiest via some rocks that are at the east edge of the pullout. Find the trail running to the right and up to the base of the rock.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.1 miles from here

34 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',15],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',3],['5.8',6],['5.9',4],['5.10',8],['5.11',2],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',3],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',1],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',4],['>=V14',1]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cob Rock:
Left Huge aka The Hug Left   V8-9 7B+     Boulder, 12'   
North Face Center   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 220'   
Empor   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 220'   
West Dihedral   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
West Rib   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches   
North Face Left   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 220'   
Northwest Corner   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches   
Huston Crack   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Brownies In The Basin   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches   
West Cracks   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Hurley Direct   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
Othello   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
East Crack   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches   
Night Vision   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, Sport, 3 pitches   
Empor Scary Variant   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches   
Aid Crack   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Face Route   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Ms. Fanny Le Pump   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch   
Thunder Road   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Classics in Cob Rock

Featured Route For Cob Rock
Eric at the base of the start. The person up higher is falling backwards off the route.

North Face Center 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  CO : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock
2 pitches.P1. Start at base of North face between 2 huge boulders, go up crack and after 50 feet continue in crack system to the right....keep going until you reach a small pillar just over the right edge of a huge right facing corner...belay here.P2. Head up hand crack that curves right (tricky crux, flared jams) then heads straight up to summit. You can avoid this crux finish and from the belay go left up huge V-slot (5.0) to summit, but why?...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Cob Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Cob rock tyrolean traverse, Boulder Creek was angry that day.
BETA PHOTO: Cob rock tyrolean traverse, Boulder Creek was angr...
View of Cob from Blob. <br />Photo: Dave Fiorucci.
View of Cob from Blob. Photo: Dave Fiorucci.
Map of BC from Cob Rock to Boulder Falls.
BETA PHOTO: Map of BC from Cob Rock to Boulder Falls.
Clint locks on top of second pitch of North Face Center.
Clint locks on top of second pitch of North Face C...
Crossing the river via the Tyrolean traverse. Boulder Creek was huge that day. <br />
BETA PHOTO: Crossing the river via the Tyrolean traverse. Boul...
Crossing the river.
Crossing the river.
Cob Rock from the parking lot on the other side of Boulder Creek.
BETA PHOTO: Cob Rock from the parking lot on the other side of...
BETA PHOTO
My wife making the traverse across the creek - she was not too pleased that I was taking pictures.
BETA PHOTO: My wife making the traverse across the creek - she...
The approach can be daunting, especially if you are allergic to whitewater. Fortunately, Michael Lavrisha is unfazed.
The approach can be daunting, especially if you ar...
Cob Rock as seen from the top of Happy Hour Crag. Photo: Matt Kuehl.
Cob Rock as seen from the top of Happy Hour Crag. ...
Because Cob Rock faces North and stays cool, the crag can be quite a mob scene on hot summer days. Photo by Tony Bubb, Y2K.
Because Cob Rock faces North and stays cool, the c...
Cob Rock.  Photo taken from across the road on Blob Rock. <br /> <br />November 8th, 2009.
BETA PHOTO: Cob Rock. Photo taken from across the road on Blo...
Two unknown climbers descending from the new rappel anchors on Cob Rock. The lower climber is at the lower anchors, the top climber is descending from the upper anchors.
BETA PHOTO: Two unknown climbers descending from the new rappe...
Cob Rock from the trail to Blob Rock.
BETA PHOTO: Cob Rock from the trail to Blob Rock.
This photo shows the entire line of Empor with the direct 5.8 dihedral start. The climb starts at the lowest point shown between the two trees (in the middle-right). <br /> <br />This climb can be done in a single, EXCELLENT pitch with a 60 meter rope. Make sure you have enough 0.5-1.5" gear. There is rather minimal rope drag with 2 foot slings.
BETA PHOTO: This photo shows the entire line of Empor with the...
Cob Rock.
Cob Rock.

Comments on Cob Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 25, 2013
By Darrin Stein
From: Laurens, SC
Jan 8, 2002
I'm not going to comment on any one particular route. From this page, if anyone pulls the drop down for the routes, you will see all the stars listed. A GREAT crag, despite the close proximaty to the road and it being so crowded.
By Greg Kneser
Sep 30, 2002
The traverse has been taken down, but with the drought this year it's not necessary. There are _many_ safe rock hopping ways to get to Cob Rock right now (September 2002)
By James Balasalle
Jun 1, 2003
Tried to get here on 5/30/03... Didn't happen. The traverse isn't there, and the creek is raging. Wading the creek seemed pretty much un-doable, as the water looked to be at about class II-III whitewater. This was a bummer because there was NO-ONE there... wonder why.
By Shawn Shannon
From: Everett, WA
Jun 14, 2003
Any word if a traverse across the river has been set up? Also, if there isn't one is there any alternatives to reach the rock? thanks...
By Sue Rice
Aug 2, 2003
I was out here in July. Was this the traverse that the climber got pinned at the creek by a boulder?
By Ted Lanzano
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 14, 2003
I ran into an employee from the Department of Transportation who told me he was going to cut the rope traverse over the creek at Cob. He said the rope is attached to State property (the gaurd rail) which is against the law. I told him to wait a few days and put up a notice explaining the situation and not leave climbers stranded on the other side. He appeared to of waited because as of yesterday (8/13) the rope was still installed. In any case, he could come back and cut it and it is probably best to move the traverse back to the tree and off the gaurd rail.
By Scott Conner
From: Lyons, CO
Aug 14, 2003
The tyrolean for Cob and Sherwood Forrest are no longer needed. The creek can be safely crossed in calf deep water and it's almost possible to rock hop.
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 1, 2003
Was on the Northwest face yesterday, and it seems the big white spot in the picture where routes come together is where there is a massive 2-ton rock that is loose. I know this because I was about to set an anchor in and when I shook the TCU a little the whole damn thing moved. It's set in place well, but be aware! Cheers. brian w
By Darren O'Connor
Jun 24, 2005
I just crossed the creek on the fraying rope near Sherwood Forest and hiked down to Cob Rock. I was disturbed to find three new bolts on the face on the top pitch of Empor, near the 5.7 alternate finish. The 3rd bolt didn't have a hanger. Anyone know who put this up?

It seems rather contrived to me to put 3 bolts in at the top of a bunch of classic 5.7's and 5.8's. I happily climb the new bolted routes in the canyon, but I think it's out of place to be bolting a 20' piece of rock that you have to climb moderate routes with gear to approach. Perhaps my opinion is colored by my long time enjoyment of this, my favorite rock in the canyon.
By MarkGriffin
From: Goretex-Vortex, CO
May 3, 2007
Used the tyrolean today (5/3/07) and it works smashingly but just barely keeps you out of the water. Recommend dragging your packs across separately to keep them dry.

  • *EDIT: Tyrolean is fixed, nice 'n high above the creek. June 2007. Thanks to whomever did this.

Does anyone know what the bolted line just right of Hurley Direct is?
The first bolt hanger is missing, then three more bolts to a sling anchor below a nice right leaning finger/hand crack.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 4, 2007
Yeah- Brownies In The Basin

It *WAS* 'Brownies in the Basin,' but someone retro-bolted it.
By Stephanovich
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 23, 2007
Yahoo, Love Cob. All routes are quality!! One particular one,-I was wishing for more info of. Yesterday 6-22-07 w/ Pam Porskinak (sorry Philo I had to) I climbed up Hurley Direct (5.10- ?). Traversed into Empor (5.7ish-) and up the V-slot. From there, there are two bolts to a bolt stud. Face w/ small holds to a sloping dish (directly below the stud), I think this might be the crux (5.10+ or 5.11??). I might have made it harder, instead of using a stopper I had a maschine nut and "Lucky" bolt hanger, which I "placed" on the stud- gave it a traddier feel, clipped a draw and fell. LOL. Tim and Betheny whom I met, gave me enough motivation to do it on my second try, yet the hanger was in place at that point. I must try again, in the fashion of the first go. does any body know what it is?
Culp climbed the face years ago w/o the bolts in place, but veered off to the right joining the 5.7 splitter-like crack of Empor. I think that's so cool man.
That day I used the following gear for my attempt:
#0.5 WC Friend (on Hurley Direct), two shoulder length slings w/ crabiners for the old pitons (on Empor), two quick draws for the bolts (on the "unknown" face), "lucky" bolthanger + the nut for it and two biners, sling and locker for tree belay, 1 pitch from ground to belay tree (60m). Super fun day.
By kevinnlong
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 18, 2008
A minor correction; many of the moderate classic lines were put up in the '50s (Empor and North Face Center) by the standard incredibles of that time! They had eyes for classic lines. Cob Rock is filled with them.
By jason lamere
Jun 23, 2009
I had to bail today do to thunder and lightning. I left a sling and a couple of carabiners. If you grab them could you please e-mail me at jason.lamere@gmail.com.

Thanks
By Don Bushey
Jun 15, 2010
Wow- I was about to cross the highly suspect tyrolean last night over to Cob and it looked waayyy scary. Has anyone crossed this with the recent high water and lived??
By Luke Childers
Jun 23, 2010
Did "Left Huge" today... onsight.... For V9? It seemed a bit soft? It would be my 1st V9 onsight.... I was thinking it was more like V8 ish or so, but who is to say for sure? It was a cool line that suited my style, but in 20 years of climbing I've never crush a V9er like I did this one.... I wounder what others may think? Good line with good shade. Fun day on good stone. Odd more info is not available on the bouldering at "Cob Rock."
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Jun 24, 2010
Luke, some info is up at my blog guide
www.bouldercanyonbouldering.blogspot.com
By kevin murphy
From: Lafayette, Colorado
Jun 9, 2013
Tyrolean looks very suspect. Did not trust it, sun burned and many nicks. Water is raging as well.
By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Aug 1, 2013
There is a new rappel route from the summit. It was installed to help mitigate the degradation of the standard walk off, which is in major disrepair. There are two chain anchors near the summit, basically between the top of Empor and Northwest Corner. There is another rap station on a small ledge between those two routes for a second rappel. Two raps with one 60-meter rope gets you down.
By Steven Crisp
Aug 12, 2013
Instead of installing a rap route over a very popular route with clusters of people trying to rap down, why not just improve the walkoff as they do in Eldo? Couple volunteers a couple days. Also the tyrolean is shit and needs more attention than the rappel.
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Aug 13, 2013
Steven, there is a decent forum post going on this topic. To summarize: this is not an official trail in the eyes of the National Forest Service and getting official sanction to do such would occur on a different time scale than at Eldorado Canyon State Park. We have it so good at Eldo.
By Matt DiTullio
From: Boulder, Colorado
Oct 25, 2013
Did anyone happen to find a large purple cam or medium yellow cam on Empor or North Face Center on Cob Rock in the last 2 weeks? Or is anyone planning on climbing there in the next few days? Please email me if you said yes to either of these! Thanks!