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Coatimundi Whiteout 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: FA: Scott Baxter, Jim Whitfield, 1971 FFA (P1/P2): Scott Baxter, Lee Dexter, 1971 FFA (Roof): John Long, Lynn Hill, Kieth Cumming, 1980
Page Views: 6,922
Submitted By: Timothy Roehr on Sep 22, 2006

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Heather Hayes pulls through the crux of the Coatim...
Falcon closures. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Probably the most classic route at Granite Mountain. This is part of the Great Roof section. Start up a slab for approximately 50 feet. Then climb a flake that turns into a left facing corner. There is a two bolt hanging belay at about 120 feet. The next pitch is a steep offwidth and corner to another hanging belay at 160 feet. Climb a short easy 20 foot pitch to the next belay. The next pitch is the crux. Angle to the right and up under the Great Roof. Then jam and smear the crack to the left edge of the roof. The pitch ends after you pull the roof. Belay as soon as possible to avoid rope drag. This is a very exposed belay. The final scramble is up a easy gully, over another small roof, and finished at the triangle shaped boulder. And alternate finish is to link up on Candyland. This keeps the rating down to 5.9+. Descend through the Coke Bottle. Refer to the Climber's Guide to Granite Mountain for topo.


Location 

It is advisable to get an early start so you beat the afternoon monsoon showers.


Protection 

There are two bolt belays for the first two pitches. Most guides say fingers to #3 camalots. We did use a #4 also.



Photos of Coatimundi Whiteout Slideshow Add Photo
The traverse under the roof on the "candyland" finish. Good fun!
The traverse under the roof on the "candyland" fin...
Coatimundi Whiteout at Granite Mtn, AZ.
Coatimundi Whiteout at Granite Mtn, AZ.
traversing out the Coatimundi Whiteout side of the Great Roof
traversing out the Coatimundi Whiteout side of the...
Just to clarify- Coatimundi Whiteout traverses left under the Great Roof, Candyland traverses right. Most folks opt for Candyland as a exit to Coatimundi's first two pitches.
Just to clarify- Coatimundi Whiteout traverses lef...
Greg starting the Coati Candy link up.
Greg starting the Coati Candy link up.
Comments on Coatimundi Whiteout Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 30, 2011
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 25, 2006

Some helpful gear beta: At the left side of the Great Roof when pulling the final four foot roof, I think we had a blue camalot and also a red. The blue I remember being crucial. To set the belay above, I think you also need some blue camalots as well. It is an all gear belay. Wild pitch, and probably the most exposure GM has to offer. Did they ever replace those rusted pins with long-lifes?

By Timothy Roehr
From: Tucson,Az
Sep 25, 2006

Sorry if I was not clear that the route finished out of the left side of the route. I am not an expert at adding routes here yet. But I will also second the "Old School Hard" feeling. We did the Candyland linkup and I was still battling to get up it. Exposure is very high.

By Mike Staton
Nov 1, 2006

There are many good "link ups" for this route. The original way is classic, climbing the first two pitches of Candyland then going left out the roof to finish on Coatumundi is awesome, climbing water streak delight is a good one too.
Pulling the crux roof on Coatumundi is one of the coolest 5.11's I've ever done.

By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Mar 20, 2007
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I did CW a long while ago. I used a #4 friend out the last roof and fell on it quite a bit. Too much rope drag. The final iron cross took a lot out with the rope drag so maybe I'm off on thinking it's harder than 11a, I considered it more like 11c.

By Greg DeMatteo
From: W. Lebanon, NH
May 12, 2007

Word on the street someone went up and busted off some serious holds. Any confirmation of this?

By Larry Coats
Sep 1, 2007

In regards to the rumor, I doubt that broken holds could significantly change the rating. The traverse is flaky, but you primarily use the cracks- either as a handrail or underclinging the vertical one above- with smears the primary footholds on the slab below. And the roof goes on jams, as you can see in pic of Heather- locker hands in the connector crack, then a long stretch to the right (or dyno if you are under 5'8" or so as is Heather!) to flared thin hands. The left hand works a thin finger crack, so I don't see broken holds changing it much. A very spectacular and intimidating route- go for it!

By Tavis Ricksecker
From: Bishop, ca
Oct 5, 2007

Did the Coatimundi-Candyland linkup yesterday. Anyone else find the second pitch of Coatimundi to be a little scary? I got up to the traverse left but it looked like a pretty dangerous fall, and with nothing but those flexing crusty scabs for holds I opted for the straight up way. Had to run it out a little to gain the upper crack but I think if I had brought a new #5 camalot it would have been totally safe. Still hard for 5.9 though! Whew!

By Tavis Ricksecker
From: Bishop, ca
Oct 9, 2007

Ha! Well, I hung at that fist section. :( Then I figured out the layback move. Cool! I'll be back. :)

By Kyle J. Kent
Dec 29, 2008

I climbed this route twice this year. As far as broken holds on the traverse goes, I'm not quite sure. I know that the rock is a bit flaky at the bottom and I often scrape a little bit of rock off. Nonetheless, it is all very well protected and very stiff for the grade.

Pulling the roof is all crack climbing, a great crimp high out left, and some dynamic leg swinging. To quote my friend on the roof beta, "Be #$%@ing strong"!

Wonderful climb, the first two pitches to get under the roof are stellar and the traverse/pulling the roof is unforgettable! Enjoy

By Mike
From: Phoenix
Oct 7, 2009

This might be the hardest "5.11a" I have ever done. The roof pitch is wild and exposed.

For gear I would recommend bringing a second #4 camalot.

Also there is currently a bees nest under a boulder at the base. They didn't bother us, but be aware.

By Joe Lee
From: Las Vegas
Sep 30, 2011

This comment is for those doing the Coatimundi Candyland link up (if you are strong enough to due Coatimundi in its entirety, you probably won't be concerned about this comment).

For those who don't climb hard 11, you have to be solid on pitch two. I left the dihedral at a point that seemed to correspond to the topo. The runout up and left is not trivial. The climbing is harder than 5.7. And if you are short, placing a piece near the end of the traverse is dicey. If this is your pitch, you'll want a cool head.