Coatimundi Crack 5.6
| 5,891 page views
Good page?   |
BETA PHOTO: Coatimundi Crack
Add Photo  Printer View
Description Coatimundi Crack is a fine line up the southwest side of Bill's Buttress. Find the crack/inside corner behind the large Oak tree. Climb using the crack and face holds to the left. This climb contains plenty of "Thank God" holds that are found with each reach of your hand.
The Coatimundi, also known as the White-nosed Coati, is diurnal, living both on the ground and in the trees. This member of the racoon family is omnivorous, feeding on fruits, invertebrates, and other small animals. They feed by using their long noses, poking them under rocks and and into crevices, and using their long claws to dig holes or tear apart rotting logs.
Protection Standard Rack
Andrew Baptist, the Barefoot Wonder, climbing Coat...
|
Franck Greaux leading Coetimundi
|
Tim on lead. Andy on stellar belay.
|
Rhoads and his new personal challenge.
|
Mike starts up
|
Pitch 8 of 10 hour lead marathon. 4-29-12.
| | | |
| Comments on Coatimundi Crack |
|
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Jul 22, 2005
| Lots of great gear, but don't hang out too long in the crux!
There are three alternate finishes: (5.6) Up the crack and left behind the pillar, (5.8) up the pillar, starting on its left side, and (5.7) cut right around the pillar and pull a lieback up into the beefy crack. |
By Ian Schmit
Oct 10, 2006
| A great climb. Some fixed Rock Empire cams before entering the bulge will give you a laugh. Clip em off and punch up 10 more feet, get some gear and go. The top dihedral has a slightly awkward top out move. |
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Oct 10, 2006
| James Schroeder and I did an interesting variation to Coatimundi. Climb the crack/corner until it is possible to step left. Climb/walk a bit left to a nice belay ledge by a big tree. Belay here.
Next, climb right off the belay, and continue heading right and up. With a bit of routefinding and a couple 5.7ish moves, it is possible to traverse the entire buttress, and to top out near the top of of Cheetah. This is a long pitch.
We were tempted to name this pitch "The Traverse of the Gods," but that name was already taken. |
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Apr 16, 2007
| There are now two fixed cams in the bulge!
This route can be sewn up with nuts and hexes. |
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Apr 2, 2010
rating: 5.6
| The crux move of this climb down low feels harder than any move on Peter's Project (which I led 20 minutes before this). The crux looks like it'd be easy but it's not... This is a classic climb for sure. |
By Josh Knapp
Jun 19, 2011
rating: 5.7
| This is definitely old school 5.6! Much harder than pushmi pull ya crack. This would likely be 5.7 or 5.8 at a more "New School" crag. But the crux is very well protected and its a great climb! This may be king among devils lake sandbags! |
By Trad Nanny
Jun 19, 2011
rating: 5.6
| Go try The Pooper, "Most sandbagged at the lake" has been said more than once. |
|
RSS Feed
2 more...
Slideshow
