Mentioned under the Coatimundi Whiteout (5.11) route I thought this deserved to be added as is it's likely the best moderate link-up on the mountain.
P1: Start on CW with a 5.8 pitch to a bolted belay.
P2: Continue in the corner system 5.9 to another bolted belay just over the roof. P1 and 2 will link with a 70m but it's a stretch with the hardest climbing right at the end. NOTE: A traverse to the left in the middle of the pitch is noted in the Falcon guide, it may be easier but probably not for the 5.7 leader as it traverses unprotected on small flakes.
P3: Consider scrambling on easy terrain to the inside corner of the Great Roof on another bolted belay. From there ascend the inside corner of the roof and make a wild a exposed traverse pitch under the roof to the right side to an obvious gear belay under a crack.
P4: Climb a crack over an "ear" roof and take it to the top. It's been said that the small roof moves are 5.10 but I didn't think so.
Start on Coatimundi Whiteout, finish exiting the Great Roof on the right side (Candyland).
Doubles to C4 #3 plus a #4 might help.
|By Austin Sobotka|
Nov 26, 2012
if you're not traversing on the second pitch bring some etxra 2's and 3's, maybe a 4. i ran out of gear and ended up climbing the last 25 feet or so unprotected. beware the bag of sand. before making the crux moves on the fifth pitch take a second to look past your feet
From: Prescott, AZ
Oct 28, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
Anyway to change the name to Coatamundi -> Candyland, since that's what this linkup is commonly referred to? CW finishes out left under the great roof, so "Great Roof Finish" isn't really accurate.
The traverse on the second pitch mentioned above is the route of the first ascentionists and shouldn't be missed. Head left on small edges and flakes toward a hanging crack in the middle of the face. This section is unprotected, but the hardest moves are right out of the chimney. Climb the hand to OW crack (save some big cams #3, 4, 5 camelot) until it peters out, moving right to 2 bolts on a block. Either belay here, or clip the anchor and continue up a low angle wide crack to a belay under the Great Roof. Due to the wandering nature of this pitch, good runner work is necessary to avoid paralyzing rope drag. Pitch is about 180' if taken to the anchors under the Great Roof.
The last pitch is pretty standard GM 5.9