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Westworld Dome
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Chief Tossing Cookies T 
Coati Corner T 
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Warpaint T 

Coati Corner 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bob Kerry, Charlie Rollins, EFR
Page Views: 4,054
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on May 10, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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steven phillips onsiting Coati Corner

Description 

A beautiful left facing dihedral on great rock. This would be a classic at most cragging areas. If you are doing a route on Westworld Dome don't miss this one. A little mental strength will be needed for the final moves. One of Bob Kerry's finest efforts.


Location 

A hundred or so feet up hill from the start of Warpaint.


Protection 

Mostly smaller stuff as I recall. A few bolts. Anchors.



Photos of Coati Corner Slideshow Add Photo
Midway up the awesome Coati Corner.
Midway up the awesome Coati Corner.
Nice Line
Nice Line
Greg Kay works out final Moves
Greg Kay works out final Moves
Scott leading the beautiful "Coati Corner".
Scott leading the beautiful "Coati Corner".
Comments on Coati Corner Add Comment
Show which comments
By stevecurtis
From: Petaluma California
Jan 19, 2011

From the ground, the route looks trivial. However, there is a ton of good climbing. I was a bit surprised by the bolts near solid gear. A bit out of character for Cochise. (However, the sandbag grade is totally in character) Be prepared for a few tough committing moves out of the corner to the belay.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Jan 20, 2011

Bob Kerry did this climb up ground up and he didn't have micro cams, sliders or ball nuts. Definitely his finest climbing achievement considering he didn't start climb until his late thirties and did this in his forties. Often referring to himself as the 80 kilogram man, he was no twig boy, he did a great job when he put this one up.

By Andy Bennett
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 19, 2012

I, too, was surprised by the bolts. I climbed nearly the entire route on gear, placing only one micro-cam that really wasn't necessary, and felt very safe the whole time...very safe even by Cochise standards. I did clip the last bolt, but the fixed nut is only 2' or 3' below...mental strength? The anchors are just above that last bolt... Surprising and disappointing. Perhaps the bolts should be removed. Sounds like a tremendous lead by Kerry, nevertheless! And a completely killer route.

What's up with the studs and random hangers on the next dike/crack pitch directly above?

By Jimbo
Nov 20, 2012

The bolts are a part of the history. They should stay in honor of a gret ground up FA by Bob.
I think the bolts above this climb were an aborted attempt at a new line.
Get on it and do it Andy.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Nov 20, 2012

Those are my bolts. Don't even think about getting on it. Haha. (Kidding) Give it a shot Andy. I think I tried to do it twice ground up and couldn't get past that section. Not saying it will not go just that I couldn't do it either time I tried.

By Angel Mangual
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Oct 12, 2013

I wish I had more day light to finish this route. This was a great route! If you have done the first pitch of Forest Lawn and want something similar but harder this is your route. Coming back for this one!