Coati Corner 5.11-
| 3,521 page views Good page?  |
| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11- [details] |
| FA: | Bob Kerry, Charlie Rollins, EFR |
| Submitted By: | 1Eric Rhicard on May 10, 2006 |
| |
Scott leading the beautiful "Coati Corner".
Add Photo Printer View
Description A beautiful left facing dihedral on great rock. This would be a classic at most cragging areas. If you are doing a route on Westworld Dome don't miss this one. A little mental strength will be needed for the final moves. One of Bob Kerry's finest efforts.
Location A hundred or so feet up hill from the start of Warpaint.
Protection Mostly smaller stuff as I recall. A few bolts. Anchors.
steven phillips onsiting Coati Corner
| Midway up the awesome Coati Corner.
| Nice Line
| Greg Kay works out final Moves
| | |
By stevecurtis From: Petaluma California Jan 19, 2011
| From the ground, the route looks trivial. However, there is a ton of good climbing. I was a bit surprised by the bolts near solid gear. A bit out of character for Cochise. (However, the sandbag grade is totally in character) Be prepared for a few tough committing moves out of the corner to the belay. |
By 1Eric Rhicard Jan 20, 2011
| Bob Kerry did this climb up ground up and he didn't have micro cams, sliders or ball nuts. Definitely his finest climbing achievement considering he didn't start climb until his late thirties and did this in his forties. Often referring to himself as the 80 kilogram man, he was no twig boy, he did a great job when he put this one up. |
By Andy Bennett From: Tucson, AZ Nov 19, 2012
| I, too, was surprised by the bolts. I climbed nearly the entire route on gear, placing only one micro-cam that really wasn't necessary, and felt very safe the whole time...very safe even by Cochise standards. I did clip the last bolt, but the fixed nut is only 2' or 3' below...mental strength? The anchors are just above that last bolt... Surprising and disappointing. Perhaps the bolts should be removed. Sounds like a tremendous lead by Kerry, nevertheless! And a completely killer route. What's up with the studs and random hangers on the next dike/crack pitch directly above? |
By Jimbo Nov 20, 2012
| The bolts are a part of the history. They should stay in honor of a gret ground up FA by Bob. I think the bolts above this climb were an aborted attempt at a new line. Get on it and do it Andy. |
By 1Eric Rhicard Nov 20, 2012
| Those are my bolts. Don't even think about getting on it. Haha. (Kidding) Give it a shot Andy. I think I tried to do it twice ground up and couldn't get past that section. Not saying it will not go just that I couldn't do it either time I tried. |
|