Coarse and Buggy 

The direct start is superior and definitely recommended. Take care when placing pro at the start of the lieback section as there is a section of hollow-sounding rock regularly used to set gear. Also, if much gear is placed in the middle section be mindful of rope drag. Once I watched a leader pitch off the upper crux and as the rope came taut several pieces in the middle popped. 4 out of 5 stars.

Did the hand-traverse start. The smooth dihedral section was delicate and technical and the crux in my opinion, thin fingers would certainly help. Middle section was a relief but I remember the pump encroaching as I hit the grand finale. Power very helpful here.

Purity, Line, position, technicality, varied technique

On the FFA of this route, the entire climb was rife with loose rock, but was still obviously a great route. The crux section (the stemming down low) had one fairly large hold on the right side of the corner. It was probably an inch wide and a few inches long, but composed of layer after layer of potato chip rock (as was much of the right wall). Near the top layback section, I cleaned a large stopper, by pulling it through the ball-bearing filled crack!

I did this route most recently about a year ago; it is a testiment to what traffic can do to totally clean the rock of loose flakes and ball-bearings. A classic.

I led this route not long after it was established as a free climb and it was just like Randy described. I remember it being stunning but spooky lead. I am actually glad to hear it has been "groomed" into civility. I am planning a trip out there this March and have always wanted to go back to this cool route. Unfortunately, time, and other thieves, have tarnished the stainless steel of my shrinking family jewels. I dont think I would want to lead it like it was now that my juvenile juices have turned to geriatric jelly.

Can be set up, as we did, as a TR. The middle crux takes more time than the top. My buddy labeled this as one of the best in JTree.

Does anyone know if the FFA was done as a direct start or from the traverse in?

FFA was done via the traverse in from left.

Just finished 2 weeks in the park and this route was my favorite. Such an aesthetic line and the rock is not rough at all. I used BD microstoppers primarily for the crux, as well as a very small BD stopper and a #0 tcu down low. A blue alien was too large. All the gear is there and it can be very safely led. Get a good rest before the end crux!

The overhanging off-fingers lieback at the top was the crux for me. No problem with the thin, stemming corner.

What a line!

The stemming corner is pretty straightforward (if you can stem :). BD micronuts, a green Alien, and purple and green C3 sewed it up. C3s go in the top of the stem section like a knife through butter! The middle section is cruiser thin jams with big rests - including a no hands stem rest.

The finishing crux isn't that hard, but don't get suckered into a rush layback like I did! Instead square up to the crack and work the crack (and dodgy feet) until you can get the positive crimps that allow you to hit the finishing rail. A purple camalot (#0.5) protects the final crux perfectly.

Truly one of the best lines in the park.

Well as Randy noted, the route was extremely loose before and on the first free ascent. Though I top-roped the route (without falling) the weekend before the FFA, I was quite unprepared for the experience leading the thing.

My protection consisted entirely of standard 70's era hexes and stoppers, and at the crux I must have stuffed 4 to 6 pieces in close proximity. Randy also remembered that he removed one of my best pieces by pulling it with a downward force. I suspect that had I fallen, pieces would have pulled resulting in a long fall or a even a groundfall. I came back and led the route in the mid 80's with cams and it was still scary, more due to my own loss of cajones (now that I'm past age 19) than quality of protection or difficulty.

I took a 40 foot screamer on this route from the top crux. I blew two crappy pieces. and fell from the top lie-back holds to below the little roof half way up the route. I don't know if anyone cares, but you might want to place a .5 camalot or a red alien at that part instead of a blindly placed yellow alien (just FYI).

still a bit "coarse and buggy" down low on the right hand wall. crux takes a orange TCU perfectly.

awesome route!

Super fun, with a technical stemming crux down low. Bring several tiny nuts & microcams for this part. The pumpy section up high gets easier if you have the good beta.

Rowdy!! One of the best routes in the park. Done via the Direct Start this climb throws a bit of everything at ya. Black Alien and BD #4 stopper protect the stemmming corner and a Red Alien at the top crux helps keep you sane.

Spectacular Route! Its Like a latter in that beautiful corner. That last .5 is tough to place under the bulge, followed by one of the cooler moves in Jtree.

There is still a bit of exfoliation on the direct start, but I don't think it's loose enough to justify avoiding like back in the day unless you're a bit light ;).

I was fortunate enough to climb this route the only time I ever visited Joshua Tree with Mike Reardon feeding me pounds and pounds of Beta. A good man, great memory and excellent 5.11 climb.

been thinking a lot about this route as of late . . . one of my favorites in J-Tree