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Coal Mt. Crag Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Coal Mt. Crag

Apron, The 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Black Slabs 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Central Forested Wall 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Flat Iron Slab 4 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

In Between Wall 2 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Lower East Wall 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Main Wall 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

Tut's Pyramid 0 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Wise Up Wall 5 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8

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Elevation:	3,600 ft
GPS:	48.44095, -121.95135 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	35,165 total · 267/month
Shared By:	CameraisHeavy on Jun 24, 2013 · Updates
Admins:	Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July Details

Peregrine falcons select nest sites on cliffs in the Upper Skagit Valley, including the Climbing Management Areas of Newhalem West (Ryan’s Wall) and Newhalem East. As required in the NPS Superintendent’s Compendium, these areas will be closed to all public from March 1st to July 15th of each year, or until the young falcons have fledged or NPS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition and NPS partner on a volunteer raptor monitoring program to determine nesting activity. Contact the NPS and/or WCC for updates.

Description

A variety of secluded sub-alpine climbing- cracks, bolted slabs, and overhangs. Original routes were put up in the 70's by Dallas Kloke and friends. The crag made a comeback in 2005-present and now hosts 95+ pitches between the three Cumberland Crags. The rock quality ranges from bomber to choss. New route setters should be prepared to scrub the black lichen which coats many of the walls. With that said, underneath the lichen there are some high quality established lines and potential routes available. As of now the focus has been 5.6-5.12a but there are some steep looking walls for hard men and women in the future. Good long cracks for western WA and a short approach make this area a gem.

Getting There

From Seattle:

Take the College Way exit 227, Mount Vernon. Take a right on College Way. Drive through Mount Vernon on College Way (apox. 3 miles) to the Hwy 9 round-about. Take a left and head north on hwy 9 for 4.2 miles. Take a left on South Skagit Hwy.

From Bellingham:

Take the Cook Rd exit 232, Sedro-Woolley. Take a left on Cook Rd. In 4 miles take a right on Trail Rd. Go straight through the intersection onto State St. Then turn right onto Hwy 9. Take the first right after crossing the bridge over Skagit River onto South Skagit Hwy.

Follow S Skagit Hwy along the river and through farmlands for 11.6 miles and take a right onto Finney-Cumberland Rd, also marked National Forest rd. 17 (gravel rd). Continue up this road always staying on the main one for 9.1 miles. On the right, there's an overgrown gravel road with a large rock on each side of the entrance. Walk along this road for about 800 feet until it takes a turn to the left. There's a faint trail up to the boulder field on the right at the start of the turn.

Other notable contributors

This page was originally made by "Wakaranai" in 2010 as a single crag, and some of the text was copied over to this multi-crag page.

Andrew Davidson pointed out the duplication in areas and which routes from the original page had not yet been duplicated here.

27 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Coal Mt. Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c 18 ● Wisecrack Trad Wise Up Wall
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 4 ● It's All Fun and Games Until the… Sport Tut's Pyramid
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 10 ● Exodus Sport Wise Up Wall
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 19 ● Deliverance Trad 2 pitches Main Wall
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 11 ● Wiseguy Sport Wise Up Wall
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 4 ● Zebra Crack Trad Central Forested Wall
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 8 ● White Fragility Trad Main Wall
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 4 ● Ultra Basic Trad, Sport 3 pitches Flat Iron Slab
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b 4 ● Cookie Sheet Trad, Sport Flat Iron Slab
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 11 ● Purdy Mouth Trad Wise Up Wall
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a 8 ● A Shot in the Dark Trad Main Wall
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 8 ● Cahullawasse Trad Wise Up Wall