Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Industrial Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Assembly Line S 
Blast Furnace S 
Coal as Ice T 
Conveyor Belt S 
Hidden Agenda S 
Hoffa Finger S,TR 
Ignominious Demise S 
Loading Dock S,TR 
Maid In America S,TR 
Union Dues S 
Wage Slave S 
White Collar Redneck S,TR 

Coal as Ice 

WI3 M2-3

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 180'
Consensus: WI3 M2-3 [details]
FA: Brian Cabe and Matt Scullion 9 January 2010
New Route: Yes
Season: winter
Page Views: 771
Submitted By: Brian in SLC on Jan 11, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Matt startin' the cleanup on isle "Coal as Ice"

Description 

A nice long pitch (180 to 200 feet, depending on where you belay) of fairly low angle ice, with several steeper bulges and some rock slabs with snow/thin ice to keep things interesting.

Climb the low angle approach ice (around 60 feet of lower angle WI 3) taking care as there might be a fair amount of water flow and funky ice layering. Set up 50-100 feet above this approach pitch at a nice, flat belay spot. Climb up, hopefully more ice than snow and rock. After the last significant bulge of ice, a belay from a cluster of trees on the climber's right works for both the belay and rappel (we left a black sling and rapide for a rappel anchor).

Thick and thin, some rock work, short steps to thick enough ice, trees and short, medium and long screws for pro. More "busy" and much longer than it looks from below.

Worthy diversion from the standard classics in the canyon. Speakin' of classics...

I've seen it before
It happens all the time
You're closing the door
You leave the world behind
You're digging for gold
Yet throwing away
A fortune in feelings
But someday you'll pay

You're as cold as ice, cold as ice, I know


Location 

Located in Coalpit Gulch, just uphill and across the gully from the Industrial Wall.

Approach as per the Pentapitch area and/or Industrial Wall. Hike up Coalpit Gulch (making darn sure the avy hazard is low).

Climb the 60 foot low angle approach ice or hike up to the climber's left. Just above this approach pitch, the route starts on the west side of the gully (east facing).

Ice flow is located about 100 feet to the right of the steeper waterfall (ski rappel) past the Industrial Wall.

Rappel from tree(s).

If formed, this route "should" be partly visible from the LCC main road. Pull out into the driveway on the north side of the road to put the binoculars on it.


Protection 

Take a variety of screws, from stubbies to 17cm. Plenty of slings for trees on the sides of the route. Rock gear might also be useful (placed a handy .5 camalot in a slot) and a small selection of pins might work too.



Photos of Coal as Ice Slideshow Add Photo
Approach ice in Coalpit Gulch heading towards "Coal as Ice" route.
Approach ice in Coalpit Gulch heading towards "Coa...
"Coal as Ice" in Coalpit Gulch.
BETA PHOTO: "Coal as Ice" in Coalpit Gulch.
Leading Coal as Ice.  Takin' with Matt's I phone.  Can you hear me now?
Leading Coal as Ice. Takin' with Matt's I phone. ...
Topping out "Coal as Ice".
Topping out "Coal as Ice".
Comments on Coal as Ice Add Comment
Show which comments
By paintrain
Jan 11, 2010

Cool as Ice
Cool as Ice


I'll fess up. This is what I was thinking with the name. But either way.

Fun route. Busier than expected. It feels considerably steeper than it looks (as with most ice).

By mountainsense
Jan 15, 2010

A great find, gentlemen--and here I was, about to commit seppuku due to the abyssmal snow conditions... Hattori