Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Jim McCarthy and Dave Bernays, 1954 FFA Art Gran, 1960s. |
Page Views: | 1,918 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | matt matera on Jul 8, 2012 |
Admins: | Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio |
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Description
Pitch 1: Climb up 20' to a small ledge, then diagonal right 15' to a small ledge and horizontal at an overhang.
From this spot you can take a direct route straight up (but beware that a hold has broken off the direct roof variation and gear is hard to place; Williams says 5.10a but I say 10d-ish?);
The route itself traverses left (5.6) on good hands but poor feet, 25' left then up 10' up, and then back right 30' to a corner and a semi-hanging belay stance.
Pitch 2: Diagonal up right through overhangs (strenuous 5.8) past a new piton, then continue on to the Welcome to the Gunks bolt anchor, which will get you to the ground with one 60m rope. Be aware that this pitch may overlap with Welcome, and you should plan accordingly if someone is on that route.
From this spot you can take a direct route straight up (but beware that a hold has broken off the direct roof variation and gear is hard to place; Williams says 5.10a but I say 10d-ish?);
The route itself traverses left (5.6) on good hands but poor feet, 25' left then up 10' up, and then back right 30' to a corner and a semi-hanging belay stance.
Pitch 2: Diagonal up right through overhangs (strenuous 5.8) past a new piton, then continue on to the Welcome to the Gunks bolt anchor, which will get you to the ground with one 60m rope. Be aware that this pitch may overlap with Welcome, and you should plan accordingly if someone is on that route.
Location
Below the left side of a block that is sitting on a ledge 10 feet off the ground, 40 feet to the left of Welcome to the Gunks.
Photos
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