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 ADVANCED
Cynical Pinnacle
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Center Route T 
Class Act S 
CMC Route T 
Hand Job (aka West Face) T 
Hand Job Direct T 
Monkey in the Forest T 
Off-width Route TR 
Rap Crack T 
Rising Crescendo T 
Turf Spreader T 
Twist O' Flex T 
Wunsch's Dihedral T 

CMC Route 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 225', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: warm
Page Views: 1,047
Submitted By: Bill Duncan on Aug 22, 2007

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  • Description 

    This is the easiest way to the summit of Cynical Pinnacle. The crux is getting to the base of the route (see below). Climb a nice, stemming chimney, with a bit of offwidth at the top until you can mantle on to a very large ledge. (100') Next, climb some offwidth (5.8) to a right-angling crack that takes you to the NW corner of the pinnacle about 50 vertical feet below the summit. Continue climbing the crack (1 or 2 5.7 moves) until you reach easier ground and the summit.

    Location 

    This route is on the north side of the pinnacle. Hike around to the right side and scramble up the boulder and bush laden gully until you see the obvious chimney. This requires a bit of bushwhacking to be sure.

    You can rap back down to the very large ledge, where there are anchors that get you to the ground. But why don't you just rap of the west face instead and save yourself the bushwhack? You can reach the ground with one double rope rappel off the west face. This does require some scrambling after the rap, but it is an easy way off.

    Protection 

    Splatte rack.


    Comments on CMC Route Add Comment
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    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    Nov 16, 2007

    I believe this is the only free route to the summit rated under 5.11.
    By Chris Wenker
    From: Santa Fe
    Sep 25, 2014

    This appears to be #88 in Hubbel's 1997 guide (page 76: climbs 86, 87, 88 have no names, ratings, or descriptions). A good adventure.

    A #6 would have been nice for the second bit of offwidth.

    From the summit, a rap with a single 70m rope will just barely put you on the ledge at the top of the chimney (a short bit of unroped easy scrambling may be necessary to reach the fixed pin anchor on that ledge). You may have to leave some tat on the summit bolts to extend to the edge, though. Then a second single rope rap back to the deck.