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Mt Thorodin
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CMC Route 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: perhaps some CMCer
Page Views: 4,505
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Apr 5, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Sport climber Julie Westland swallowed by crack mo...

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Description 

This is an short old route on the left side of the second buttress of Mt Thorodin. It is an eye-catching natural line that appears to have smaller features than it does. It is the obvious early line for the crag. This follows a crack/chimney system that appears plumb to the top. Hike about 1 hour from Panorma Point dropping into the drainage and then angling cross-country to the crag. Addendum: the start can be a bit challenging to determine. Perhaps 1.5 stars?

P1. Follow a right-angling crack/dihedral briefly until you are in the line of the crack/chimney system firing straight to the top. Belay at a tree.

P2. Continue up the right-facing crack/dihedral/chimney system as it widens out. Stem, wedge, jam, squirm out over an improbable-for-5.7 looking bulge and gain a small ledge that used to have an angle for an anchor. Big gear for an anchor.

P3. Continue up the crack/dihedral to the top with easier terrain.

Walk off left and back the the base.

Note, a pack on the back may prove challenging to climb with.

Protection 

Standard rack (nuts, a few larger hexes, single set of cams), 60m rope nice.


Photos of CMC Route Slideshow Add Photo
Liz approaching the roof on the CMC Route. Easy onsight! Nice job.
Liz approaching the roof on the CMC Route. Easy on...
Julie Westland on 2nd pitch 3/21/04.
Julie Westland on 2nd pitch 3/21/04.
The route goes up the biggest, deepest looking crack from the ground. The roof pitch is right under the dark overhang and is surprisingly easy to negotiate.
The route goes up the biggest, deepest looking cra...
Foreshortened view of P2 & P3 on the CMC Route.  Aim for the notch in the rock on the skyline.
BETA PHOTO: Foreshortened view of P2 & P3 on the CMC Route. A...
Tracy coming up to the belay just below the roof.
Tracy coming up to the belay just below the roof.
Me, P1, CMC Route.
Me, P1, CMC Route.
The imposing looking but quite casual roof. Good pro.
The imposing looking but quite casual roof. Good p...
Big crack on P2, lieback to get up.
BETA PHOTO: Big crack on P2, lieback to get up.
Looking at the backside of the First Butress and the park road from the summit ridge. The walkoff was very nice.
Looking at the backside of the First Butress and t...
Climbing up to the belay below the roof.
BETA PHOTO: Climbing up to the belay below the roof.

Comments on CMC Route Add Comment
Show which comments
By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Apr 9, 2002

This is a fun route on a good chunk of alpine granite. There are many good routes out here and very few people....
By RomoFo
Aug 8, 2005

Nice views, Great rock.
By Buff Johnson
Jun 19, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I did a 60m up slabby stuff to the start of the natural line (did not stop at the tree), then 30m just below & left of the chimney crux under a cool & airy overhang, then 30m to finish. Used pro to 2.5". Doubles of yellow, red, & purple Aliens, three large nuts & a couple small nuts, singles of Tech Friends in the hand size -- large pro not needed if you set up belay before the chimney crux; this route does not need a full rack, it has a lot of flares.

Climbs similar to the Staircase in 11-Mile, while Staircase is a much better climb, the scenery on Thorodin is outstanding. I thought there were 2 short 5.7 sections which were at the start of my second and third pitches respectively, the rest was 5.5ish.
By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Jun 9, 2007

You can get in line with the huge, main crack a variety of ways. We came in from the left over slabs with cracks and flakes. At the last pitch there is a little roof with a possible squeeze through underneath it if you are so inclined. The main crack gets very wide at this part, but there are smaller cracks that take gear to your right in your face at the roof.
By AOSR
From: Wherever we park!
Sep 7, 2008
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This is a way better route than the Northwest Ridge. Easy to protect, fun lieback at the 2nd, and then the interesting roof/chimney combo on the third. Not much vert, all slab. Outstanding views, great temp, no company.
By John M Brooks
From: Niwot, CO
Sep 14, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Tough to find start. P1-3 : 45,35,35m. Climbed with packs made roof crux toughest spot. Great views. Good variety with slab, crack, chimney, & roof. Good to have hexes.
By Rick Blair
From: Denver
Sep 14, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Started on crack at dead tree, on the way up I noticed the crack to the left looked better/cleaner. I saw some webbing around a tree on that route so maybe someone used that for a rap route. I could almost give this 3 stars for the scenery, interesting climbing and fun approach. The negatives were the circuitous walk-off and the vegetation and lichen on the route. The day I climbed was preceded by a snow fall on the high peaks, the views were breathtaking and I could see downtown Denver from the the top as well! We followed the road east as recommended above for the approach, good advice. We accidentally went too high and above the lower buttress, so... aim for the lower buttress. Even with route finding errors on the way up, the approach only took a little more than one hour. In my opinion the 5.7 sections were the layback crack on P2 and the chimney/roof on P3. If I hadn't had a pack on, the layback on P2 may have been the crux.
By J. Fox
From: Black Hawk, CO
Jun 7, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Yes, the chimney pitch looks like it would require huge gear, but the biggest cam I placed was a 0.75 C4 and the rest of it takes medium stoppers really well.