The route climbs out the roofy stuff to hanging groove right of Carrying Futons, then stays along the right side of the arete through some crux moves. You can finish right or left at the last bolt. Technical arete moves and good climbing throughout. Be careful of the hollow block down low.
6 bolts to the Carrying Futons anchors.
|By Jer Collins|
Apr 22, 2008
Clyde's come a long way, baby! good boy!
|By Dan Levison|
From: Boulder, CO
May 7, 2008
Great route albeit a bit of a squeeze job. Killer knee bar getting over the initial roof (not the crux), had to stay disciplined not to veer left or right to the neighboring routes. A crux at mid-height replete w/ knee and hip scum will take off the edge while looking for a little crimp to get over a slight bulge. Slightly sporty in a couple places – as most new routes will clean up and become quite good – 2 stars (12a/b). Great addition to the Patio!
|By Tzilla Rapdrilla|
Aug 4, 2011
Clyde got my lunch on this one (he's good at that by the way). Couldn't figure out how to stay on the line at bolt #5 without going over into War on Peace. Tried to stem through it, but maybe there's a way to use the referenced hip scum thing that I didn't try. Seemed way harder than War on Peace. Both routes are great additions to the Bocan set of routes.
Jun 30, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
The climbing and protection on the lower half are perfect. On the upper section, the climbing is still good, but the bolting isn't the best. Between the 5th and 6th bolt, be prepared for tenuous climbing with a post-crux pump and bad ledge fall potential below your right foot. Falling here could be really, really bad. Another detraction is sharing the anchor out right with War on Peace, which makes for a traffic jam and difficult cleaning.
If these minor issues were spruced up, this would definitely be a 3 star route, as the climbing is the best of the routes at this crag.
Jul 7, 2014
Slim, if you want to relocate the clip and put in anchors, be my guest. Thanks, Matt.