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Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left)
Routes Sorted
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Anchovy Caper, The S 
Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication S 
Arugula, Arugula S 
Barbershop Duet T 
Big Easy, The S 
Boats from Cuba T 
Bonnie and Clyde S 
Bourbon Street S 
Brendan's Bitches T 
Cereal Killer S 
Climb and Punishment S 
Clusterphobia S 
Far From Feral S 
Fish Corner  S,TR 
Flying Squirrel S 
Green Mile S 
Half Nelson 5.7/ Full Nelson 5.11b S 
Juicy Fingers T 
Maltese Falcon, The S 
Maria's Variation T 
Men In White Suits S 
Mentally Disturbed S 
Mesresha (open project) S 
Metamorphosis S 
Panama Hat (aka Mister Meaner) S 
Rainbow S 
Scene of the Crime S 
Sesame Street S 
Slack T 
Toxic Gumbo S 
White Buttress, The T 

Clusterphobia 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Mark Sprague 10/05
Page Views: 3,811
Submitted By: lee hansche on May 10, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (87)
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BETA PHOTO: Wonderful, but short jug haul capped by easy climb...

Description 

This is another retrobolted route that is now seeing traffic. Originally done on sketchy gear, it wasn't even in the guidebook. Though not as classic as its neighbor to the left (Armed and Dangerous 5.10b), it is well worth doing and though it's a little squeezed in (as the name suggests) it will thin the crowds at this popular spot.

Climb the line of weakness to the right of Armed and Dangerous, following Metamorphosis (5.8+), then heading straight up the steep wall above to the old anchors of Armed and Dangerous. Big moves on good holds for the most part and nice clean falls.

Location 

Just right of Armed and Dangerous 5.10b.

Protection 

  • bolts to anchor.


Photos of Clusterphobia Slideshow Add Photo
Clusterphobia: August 2012
Clusterphobia: August 2012
Adam displaying the tall people's beta.
Adam displaying the tall people's beta.
Art Mooney on clusterphobia...
Art Mooney on clusterphobia...

Comments on Clusterphobia Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 14, 2014
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 15, 2007

Not a retro job, to my knowledge, though it most likely was top roped on since A&D was put in, as it runs directly to the old anchors.

Somewhat chossy, but fun steep flakes and pockets. ..a bit height dependent
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Nov 11, 2007
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I took a bit of an unexpected whipper on this climb Saturday...
A foothold about the size of Nalgene exploded off the cliff while I was using it to pull the upper lip, I don't think it changes the climb at all as it was off right a bit an into the rotten rock, apparently.
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Nov 12, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I think this is the best route on the wall. It's much better than Armed and Dangerous, IMO. It also felt hard for 5.10d. The move at the start of the steep part requires 5.11 burl.
By S. Neoh
Nov 12, 2009
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Does anyone know if the missing 1st bolt this climb shares with Metamorphosis has been replaced, or not?
By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Nov 12, 2009

Does anyone know if the missing 1st bolt this climb shares with Metamorphosis has been replaced, or not?----> new fat glue in
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jan 29, 2010

FA Mark Sprague 10/05
By Michael Buchanan
Jun 18, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

If your tall, the burl move will be chill. Its pretty much a 10a jug haul after that. Super fun.
By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
Apr 22, 2013

How does the steep part of this compare to, say, Bullwinkle goes Ballistic?
By S. Neoh
Apr 22, 2013
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

For most people, significantly harder. For me (a shortie), the crux of this route requires a good deal of core strength and precise footwork.
By MLevine
From: Nashua, NH
Oct 11, 2013

Finally got on this recently and really enjoyed it. It's a shame the 1st half of the route isn't more memorable like the first half of A+D or else the entire climb would be a classic, IMO.
By S. Neoh
Oct 11, 2013
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

It should be possible to start off A&D then link into Clusterphobia, hitting the crux of both enroute. But use your best judgement and rope management.
By MLevine
From: Nashua, NH
Oct 12, 2013

That's the plan for next time! Thanks!
By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Jul 28, 2014

One of the quick clips at the top is broken. The gate on the biner has lost its spring action.
By Greg DeMatteo
From: W. Lebanon, NH
Aug 3, 2014

I linked the start of A&D to this last week for a very enjoyable climb. The rope is in a bit of an awkward spot as you're pulling the crux but so long as you're smart about where your legs are it's not a problem. Definitely a 5.10+ move getting to that second bolt on the headwall either way. And one of the quick links on the anchor is indeed failing the Walt Shipley biner test.
By Dominic Rickicki
Sep 14, 2014

If you're in the area it's a great addition to your list of things to do, really fun pumpy jug hauling on a face that, once you look at it while lowering, you will realize is much steeper than you thought. I don't remember gaining the second bolt to be a "burl fest" as some have said, I found the movement was great just not necessarily the best holds maybe. Im also 5'11" so that could be a factor.