This is a very nice bolt-protected friction and face route leading to a walk-off ledge. Starting at the base of the flared, bottoming crack, climb up passing 2 protection bolts to a tricky step right onto the face that is also bolt protected. Three additional protection bolts lead upwards to the finish. This isn't really a sport route, since the bolts are well-spaced. Bolt anchor on the ledge at the top; either rappel the route or walk off left. Could be another sandbag at the 5.9 rating (local standard), but others have thought this might be a 5.10a.
From the parking area, walk uphill following a faint climber's trail to the steep sided "dome: directly to the climbers front, moving uphill. Clueless may be identified by a shallow, flared crack that peters out after about 15 feet.
Several bolts. Nothing else required other than some quick draws.
|By Emerson Takahashi|
From: SLC, UT
Jan 27, 2014
This was pretty fun!
I think this route was my introduction into real friction climbing.
was hard at the time, but nice to come back to.