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 ADVANCED
Pathfinder Marina
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Clueless T 
hand crack 
Way of the Deer, The 

Clueless 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Dan Charleston and Kelly Moore
Season: Spring thru Fall
Page Views: 139
Submitted By: Rodger Raubach on Mar 15, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: Clueless begins at the flared, bottoming crack bel...

Description 

This is a very nice bolt-protected friction and face route leading to a walk-off ledge. Starting at the base of the flared, bottoming crack, climb up passing 2 protection bolts to a tricky step right onto the face that is also bolt protected. Three additional protection bolts lead upwards to the finish. This isn't really a sport route, since the bolts are well-spaced. Bolt anchor on the ledge at the top; either rappel the route or walk off left. Could be another sandbag at the 5.9 rating (local standard), but others have thought this might be a 5.10a.

Location 

From the parking area, walk uphill following a faint climber's trail to the steep sided "dome: directly to the climbers front, moving uphill. Clueless may be identified by a shallow, flared crack that peters out after about 15 feet.

Protection 

Several bolts. Nothing else required other than some quick draws.


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By Emerson Takahashi
From: SLC, UT
Jan 27, 2014

This was pretty fun!

I think this route was my introduction into real friction climbing.
was hard at the time, but nice to come back to.