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Clowns and Jokers
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.3 from 18
votes
Routes in (b) Central Sector
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Air Raid T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Baby Cham Brings The Heat ! S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Big Man on Campus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Big Wall(y) Gets The Chop T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Bolt it G T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Chant Down the Wicked S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Clowns and Jokers T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Crucify the Dread S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Death from Above T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Desbandere T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Direct Start to Exum Arete S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Do It For Doug S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Exum Arete T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Giver' for Givens T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Go, For Gary ! T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Gothic Serpent T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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GrandCentral S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Gray Wall T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Hidden Gold T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Munger Crack and Friends Pitch T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Old Mountaineer's Route T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Open Project S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R |
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Piton Country T M5+ |
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Ptarmigan Tower T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rainbow Country S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Red Route, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a M7 |
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Red, Gold and Green S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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School Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sky Lounge S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Super Trad T M6+ R |
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This climb from the Tram (is recommended for climbers with expert abilities only.) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Wish You Were Here S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, Alpine, 400 ft (121 m), 5 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Dave Ryan |
| Page Views: | 3,188 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Andy Laakmann on Jun 30, 2007 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Description
Fun, safe, and steep line up Rock Springs Buttress. The protection is excellent along the entire route and all belays are fixed. The guide gives the route 11b, but it felt a touch soft to me....
To locate the route, look for a huge gnarled tree sitting in a crack about 30 feet high left of the prominent arete on the leftmost side of Rock Springs Buttress. This tree marks the start of the first pitch. The climb begins to the left of the most obvious arete system on the 2nd buttress, and has a nice flat area below the root system of the tree mentioned above. Most of the first pitch is shared with Exum Arete.
Pitch lengths are estimates
Pitch 1 (5.7, 30m) - Head up the gully/corner system past the gnarled tree. When the crack starts getting wide (#3 camalot), move up and right. Continue past the first set of chains and walk along the dirty ledge system. At the end of the ledge system you'll find a bolted belay on a large boulder. This is your anchor.
Pitch 2 (5.8, 25m) - A line of bolts begins off the dirty ledge and climbs up the featured face. Eventually you gain a nice handcrack for about 30 feet, and finally another bolt. Belay at the first anchor (with chains) on the ledge. You can leave your rack here, it is bolted above. I placed a #1, #2, and #3 camalot and a big nut.
Pitch 3 (5.8, 20m) - Follow the bolts up and slighty right of the anchor. The next set of chains is directly below the headwall and is semi-hanging. There is an opportunity for a TCU (red alien size)midway up this pitch if you desire.
Pitch 4 (5.11-, 20m) - Head straight up the imposing headwall past many bolts. Ample stemming helps keep the pump in check. The first half of this pitch is steep and stemmy, the second section slabby and delicate. Hanging belay at the chains.
Pitch 5 (5.11-, 20m) - Step left from the belay directly into thin, technical moves. Continue left past thin edges until gaining the big arete. Follow the line of bolts up the arete, and onto the final headwall.
Linking - One can easily link pitches. I would probably link pitches 2 and 3 if I were to do the route again. One can link pitch 4 and 5, but you would need ALOT of quickdraws and it would be a long, engaging pitch.
Rappel Descent - We had a 70m and rapped as follows. Top of the route to the chains at the base of the last pitch (it looked like the rope BARELY made the next anchor, but we didn't want to test it). On the next rap we skipped the next anchor and JUST made the anchor on top of pitch 2. Next rap was to the top of pitch 1. Then to the ground.
Note: With a 60m rope would you need to use ALL anchors on rappel.
To locate the route, look for a huge gnarled tree sitting in a crack about 30 feet high left of the prominent arete on the leftmost side of Rock Springs Buttress. This tree marks the start of the first pitch. The climb begins to the left of the most obvious arete system on the 2nd buttress, and has a nice flat area below the root system of the tree mentioned above. Most of the first pitch is shared with Exum Arete.
Pitch lengths are estimates
Pitch 1 (5.7, 30m) - Head up the gully/corner system past the gnarled tree. When the crack starts getting wide (#3 camalot), move up and right. Continue past the first set of chains and walk along the dirty ledge system. At the end of the ledge system you'll find a bolted belay on a large boulder. This is your anchor.
Pitch 2 (5.8, 25m) - A line of bolts begins off the dirty ledge and climbs up the featured face. Eventually you gain a nice handcrack for about 30 feet, and finally another bolt. Belay at the first anchor (with chains) on the ledge. You can leave your rack here, it is bolted above. I placed a #1, #2, and #3 camalot and a big nut.
Pitch 3 (5.8, 20m) - Follow the bolts up and slighty right of the anchor. The next set of chains is directly below the headwall and is semi-hanging. There is an opportunity for a TCU (red alien size)midway up this pitch if you desire.
Pitch 4 (5.11-, 20m) - Head straight up the imposing headwall past many bolts. Ample stemming helps keep the pump in check. The first half of this pitch is steep and stemmy, the second section slabby and delicate. Hanging belay at the chains.
Pitch 5 (5.11-, 20m) - Step left from the belay directly into thin, technical moves. Continue left past thin edges until gaining the big arete. Follow the line of bolts up the arete, and onto the final headwall.
Linking - One can easily link pitches. I would probably link pitches 2 and 3 if I were to do the route again. One can link pitch 4 and 5, but you would need ALOT of quickdraws and it would be a long, engaging pitch.
Rappel Descent - We had a 70m and rapped as follows. Top of the route to the chains at the base of the last pitch (it looked like the rope BARELY made the next anchor, but we didn't want to test it). On the next rap we skipped the next anchor and JUST made the anchor on top of pitch 2. Next rap was to the top of pitch 1. Then to the ground.
Note: With a 60m rope would you need to use ALL anchors on rappel.
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