P1: Follow the prow of the buttress over broken ledges/ramps, trending right to an obvious, large weakness in a roof. Watch for loose rock throughout; pay attention to where you are putting your protection. Pull through the slot in the roof on generously-sized holds onto a ledge with a small tree. Note the rappel station on the rock horn left of the tree. Belay. (75 feet)
Variation: About 30 feet up P1, break left onto a thin face and up to a ledge. Climb a small roof past two bolts (5.10) and onto the ledge, left of the tree. Belay. (75 feet) "Putting Out the Vibe" (5.9-) goes straight up from this point.
P2: From the right side of the tree ledge, pull straight through the small roof, and step right onto another large ledge. Small cams here protect the second. Step right a bit more, to a left-facing flake below a small roof. Protection below the roof can be tricky. Pull the roof and follow good face holds to a small ledge with a dead tree. Optional belay here (good rope management required to prevent drag). Continue up easy ground just to the right of the tree and trend left up a ramp through bushes, pine needles, and assorted vegetation to a large belay tree. (90 feet)
Descent: The final belay tree is equipped for rappel. One 60m rappel will reach the ground, but pulling the ropes can be difficult. Two 30m rappels back down the route is preferred.
Begins past the Amphitheater. Down the hill right of the Amphitheater area ("Bird's Nest," "Monopoly," etc.), find the start to "Golden Arches"--an obvious dihedral to a left-facing dihedral/flake, right of a large roof. Start about 10 feet further right of "Golden Arches" at an obvious buttress of broken rock.
Small cams are nice, but probably not required. A 3- or 4-inch piece is nice for the large crack in the roof at the first belay, but not mandatory.
From: birmingham, al
May 16, 2011
Sounds like this is located concurrent with or very near an established route.....i think it had a couple of bolts on it just below a small ledge with a little pine tree on it....that ledge could be interpreted as constituting the top of a first pitch.....a horizontally creased headwall section began off the ledge and ended vaguely in the pine trees at the cliff top.....similar in feel and position as Sugar Magnolia. The route i'm describing begins just a few feet right of the Wendys/Golden Arches area.
And just to the right of this was a chossy 5.8-ish slabbish route....that ascended up to the same ledge....and went up further for what could be intepreted as a second pitch. Never climbed this one myself.....but saw old timers on it way back in the day....when i first came to Steele
|By Derek DeBruin|
Jul 10, 2011
Cool. It sounds like what I have described is a conglomeration of 2 routes then...? I am aware of the line with 2 bolts that you describe. However, the bolts are brand new in appearance, leading me to believe they are a more recent route (though I can't confirm this.) I feel the bolted line goes at easy .10 or so. The slabby, chossy 5.8-ish thing is what I have described as the first pitch of "Cloudy Day," though they both realistically end at the same place on the ledge with the small pine.
From here, the most obvious line to me is the second pitch as described above. A direct line would be something like what I've described in as "Putting out the Vibe (5.9-)." There are other variations possible as well: "Flight of the Swallows" and "Tornado on your Birthday." If you happen to know what these routes are and whether they've been done before, feel free to post up and I'll update accordingly.