|277 page views|
Probably not the best choice for a first 5.9 lead. Very fun face climbing up a thin thin crack. No pro for the first 10 ft, with a bad landing onto a rough ledge. Eventually the crack opens up to a little and you can relax and enjoy the moves. To protect it better you could climb up Crackup for 10 ft, set some pro and climb back down so you can do the first couple moves on TR.
This is the seam a few feet left of Crackup.
Every nut you've got smaller than a ladybug, with a couple ant-sized. 1 black alien, 1 blue alien, and 1 green alien.
|By Larry Coats|
Sep 1, 2007
First ascent: Mark Force (early 80's)
|By Paul Davidson|
Nov 26, 2008
BTW - I recall this route as being intimidating from below but actually well protected if you're tuned into thin pro placements.
If it's a climb in your lead range, it's really choice. If you're just breaking into 5.10 (and I mean trad 5.10 with tricky pro) then I'd wait on this until you're solid at the grade.
This is really a cherry face/thin crack problem. Pro and holds appear when you need them but there's not much for error.
I'm pretty sure I belayed Mark when he put this up. It was a pretty bold onsight lead for the day. No TCUs, no friends, not even RPs and shoes were PA or EBs. It's not clear there's pro on this until you've committed to the climb. That said, we could very well have (and I would think we did) start with the gear in CrackUp so at least you have a swinging smash instead of a cratering break.) We were sharing a house at the time and did a number of very excellent firsts together at the Overlook. As evidenced by Coffin Corner, Mark was a very talented face climber. End of history lesson.