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Crescent Crack Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
3 Amigos 
A Kat That Grumps 
Closet Lycra 
Crack in the Woods 
Crank in the Woods 
Crescent Crack 
Crescent Crack Direct Variation 
Final Link 
Great Chockstone, The 
Grunting Gringos 
Hand Jive 
If Looks Could Kill 
Interplanetary Voyage 
Less Than Zero 
Lunge or Plunge 
Mexican Crack 
Missing Link 
No Jive Arete 
Paraplegic Ward 
Razor's Edge 
Ross Connection, The 
Ross Route, The 
Rotert's Rooter 
Short Corner 
Slam, Jam, Thank You Ma'am 
Who's On First 

Closet Lycra 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jim Reynolds, Jeff Cobabe 1987
Page Views: 1,129
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Dec 16, 2004
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Easing out of the Closet.


Just right of Crescent Crack the climb is a face with 2 bolted routes that share anchors. Closet Lycra is the right-most. The seam is the obvious weakness with which this climb starts. This, however, provides a decision making process. Do you put in the brass which will interfere with your fingterips, or not. Going from bolt 1 to 2 is the crux, however the traverse to bolt 3 still holds your attention finished off with a fun mantle on the arete. From here the climb eases considerably.


4 draws for the route, and possibly 1 brass nut in a seam for your 1st piece of gear. There are chains at the top. If you want to make it a sport route, skip the brass down low. Not like it's going to do much good anyway.

Photos of Closet Lycra Slideshow Add Photo
Rusty utilizing that wonderful chickenhead
Rusty utilizing that wonderful chickenhead
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By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Dec 2, 2009
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c

BURLY! I could name a few slabs at 11a/b that feel quite a bit easier than this one... There might not be any individual move harder than 10d but from the time you leave the ground to the time you clip the 3rd bolt the climbing is hard and very sustained. Sticking the whole sequence on lead requires a lot of things to go according to plan, which makes it a lot more satisfying that bagging some one move wonder.

Watch the bottom which is getting quite polished and get a solid spot if you eschew the brass placement (which won't keep you off the deck anyway). A long draw on the 2nd bolt keeps the moves out right from becoming a tension traverse...

By CalmAdrenaline
From: SL,UT
Aug 31, 2010

Super good, keep yo shiz together before the first bolt.

By Kurt Ross
From: Boulder, colorado
Mar 8, 2012

By James Reynolds
Nov 7, 2013

Jeff Cobabe and I put this route in back in the late 80's. We named it Closet Lycra because lycra was IN! We had a few friends who owned lycra but were a little embarrassed to be seen wearing it in public. We never considered placing a nut at the beginning because you'll just hit the ground without a good spotter/belayer anyway.