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California
> San Diego County
> S San Diego County
> El Cajon Mountain
> Wedge
> Blue Sky Wall
Closer to the Sun
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.1 from 11
votes
Routes in Blue Sky Wall
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Arching Out T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Bright Eyes T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Buffalo Brothers S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Closer to the Sun T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Open Air T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ramp S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 275 ft (83 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,609 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | bspiewak on Dec 28, 2013 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Advisory
Details
Please avoid raptor nests. El Cajon Mountain- Golden Eagles nested successfully at this site in 2009, after relocating twice between alternate nest sites. The Golden Eagle nest at El Cajon Mountain was not successful in Spring 2010. This nest was successful and fledged young in 2011 - 2021. Details from USFS posted here: fs.usda.gov/detail/clevelan…
The El Cajon Mountain climbing area is in close proximity to the San Diego River Park Foundation property. This property's purpose is to protect and conserve San Diego's threatened habitat and wildlife in perpetuity. Specifically, the San Diego River Park Foundation are protecting golden eagles that nest in the area and ceanothus, a California lilac that is an endemic sensitive plant species. Please avoid and limit recreational activities at the San Diego River Park Foundation property to promote San Diego's threatened habitat and wildlife. Thank you!
The El Cajon Mountain climbing area is in close proximity to the San Diego River Park Foundation property. This property's purpose is to protect and conserve San Diego's threatened habitat and wildlife in perpetuity. Specifically, the San Diego River Park Foundation are protecting golden eagles that nest in the area and ceanothus, a California lilac that is an endemic sensitive plant species. Please avoid and limit recreational activities at the San Diego River Park Foundation property to promote San Diego's threatened habitat and wildlife. Thank you!
Description
This route climbs the highest up the Wedge, and is the easiest of the few that actually top out the formation.
Approach is via Arching Out or the Ramp (into Arching Out).
It is the first route right of Buffalo Brothers .
See also this photo.
Pitch 1. Optional 1/2" cam, sling tie off, bolts. 140' 5.8. Off the two bolt belay climb back into the corner. Twenty feet above the belay where the corner becomes a roof, look for the bolt out left that draws you onto the Blue Sky Wall. Tie off a chicken head above, and follow bolts the rest of the way to a rap anchor at 90', 5.6 to here. The route continues out right into steeper 5.8 terrain with a nice flat ledge about 50' above the 90' anchor. Link the 90' and 50' sections to take advantage of the nice ledge. Two bolt belay on the ledge.
Pitch 2. Bolts only, 130'. 5.5. Off the ledge, bolts out right lead past a bolted rap anchor about 40' above the ledge. Skip these and continue to the bolted anchor atop the formation.
Descent: Rap the route. During the second rap skip the ledge anchor and continue to the station that was 90' up the first pitch.
OR
Walk off to the west down the West Ledges descent.
Approach is via Arching Out or the Ramp (into Arching Out).
It is the first route right of Buffalo Brothers .
See also this photo.
Pitch 1. Optional 1/2" cam, sling tie off, bolts. 140' 5.8. Off the two bolt belay climb back into the corner. Twenty feet above the belay where the corner becomes a roof, look for the bolt out left that draws you onto the Blue Sky Wall. Tie off a chicken head above, and follow bolts the rest of the way to a rap anchor at 90', 5.6 to here. The route continues out right into steeper 5.8 terrain with a nice flat ledge about 50' above the 90' anchor. Link the 90' and 50' sections to take advantage of the nice ledge. Two bolt belay on the ledge.
Pitch 2. Bolts only, 130'. 5.5. Off the ledge, bolts out right lead past a bolted rap anchor about 40' above the ledge. Skip these and continue to the bolted anchor atop the formation.
Descent: Rap the route. During the second rap skip the ledge anchor and continue to the station that was 90' up the first pitch.
OR
Walk off to the west down the West Ledges descent.
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