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Plumb Line Crag
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Closer to the Sun 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Bryan VanSickle
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,650
Submitted By: Orphaned on May 10, 2007
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Description 

This is a finger/tips crack. It has big moves between fingerlocks. Downclimb the back of the rock.


Location 

This is on the northeast side of Plumb Line crag between June Bride and The Spins. Walk east and north from Plumb Line heading uphill until you reach a small saddle. Closer to the Sun is on your left.


Protection 

Little cams (0.2-0.3 Camalots, or equivalent). #1 through #3 Camalots for the anchor.



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By Justin Edl
May 13, 2007

This is a great and pretty little line. Positive sequential fingers, good solid Vedauwoo 11-. One of the best short finger cracks in this grade range at Vedauwoo.

By Handsome B. Wonderful
Aug 15, 2009

I looked at this line for years and always thought it looked too short and dirty to be worth the effort. I was very wrong. Nice job, Bryan, I think this is one of my favorite finger cracks at Vedauwoo. It looks like the gear is going to suck, but there are bomber placements at all the right spots. Very fun climbing.

By superhero.
Nov 8, 2009

I agree, Handsome, it was too short and dirty for the effort. So I one-hung and claimed it.

By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Nov 20, 2009
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

I had to huck from lock to lock. Needless to say, I didn't get it clean. The moves are hard, but the locks are really good (if far apart). Worth trying.