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Routes in (9) Jungle Cliff
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(Link-up) Wretched Love Affair S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Amazon Woman T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Crime Wave S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Ecocide S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Enter The Void S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Firestorm S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Forged In The Flames S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Gorilla Love Affair S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Green Scare S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Heart of Darkness S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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King Louie S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Law of the Jungle S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Minimancer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mowgli Direct S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Mowgli's Revenge S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Necromancer S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Neuromancer S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Ngogo S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Open Project--Jungle Boogie S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Open Project--The Groove. S 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b |
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Oracle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Silver Back S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Slash and Burn S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Tarzan S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Total Depravity S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Total Liberation S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Under the Yum Yum Tree S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Warlock S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Welcome to the Jungle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Wretched of the Earth, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Antoine Delorme |
| Page Views: | 1,414 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Micah Klesick on Oct 28, 2015 |
| Admins: | Roberta Zouain, Kristin Tippey, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Description
This route is really fun and has committing climbing sections. I managed to send it on 7/15/2018 and called it "King Louie" I will estimate the grade at about 5.12d.
The best approach to this route is through Forced March, by skipping every other clip or clipping/unclipping bolts. Make sure to use an extended sling at the anchors at the start of the route, passed the Forced March anchors (make sure to unclip these anchors, or rope drag could be bad.)
The climb can be divided in 3 sections: first climb a tricky dihedral for 2 bolts. Clipping the second bolt can be a bit reachy for short people. You will have to trust your feet through dihedral stemming to make it to the better holds. After the dihedral, you will traverse to the right under a small roof, on better holds, before starting the second section of powerful undercling moves for another 2 bolts. You will get a good shake at the point where this route splits from Jungle Boogie. The route up to that point is probably around 5.12a. Make sure you feel fresh and rested before continuing the route as it will get much harder.
The last section is moving left and up on the final 2 bolts. The climbing feels like a tough V6/V7 boulder problem. The last few moves to the anchors are much easier but due to the insecure position could get you if you are pumped.
Overall, a really nice addition and a fairly clean route. But as usual at Broughton, it will get dirty after a few weeks of not being climbed. Thanks Micah for this great line!
The best approach to this route is through Forced March, by skipping every other clip or clipping/unclipping bolts. Make sure to use an extended sling at the anchors at the start of the route, passed the Forced March anchors (make sure to unclip these anchors, or rope drag could be bad.)
The climb can be divided in 3 sections: first climb a tricky dihedral for 2 bolts. Clipping the second bolt can be a bit reachy for short people. You will have to trust your feet through dihedral stemming to make it to the better holds. After the dihedral, you will traverse to the right under a small roof, on better holds, before starting the second section of powerful undercling moves for another 2 bolts. You will get a good shake at the point where this route splits from Jungle Boogie. The route up to that point is probably around 5.12a. Make sure you feel fresh and rested before continuing the route as it will get much harder.
The last section is moving left and up on the final 2 bolts. The climbing feels like a tough V6/V7 boulder problem. The last few moves to the anchors are much easier but due to the insecure position could get you if you are pumped.
Overall, a really nice addition and a fairly clean route. But as usual at Broughton, it will get dirty after a few weeks of not being climbed. Thanks Micah for this great line!
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