Mountain Project Logo

Closed hand crimping

Original Post
Mike Gilbert · · Bend, OR · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 21

I have been climbing for a year and a few months. I can send 11- or so but I can not closed hand crimp to save my life. Lately I have been trying to get a little more serious with my training but I wonder if my inability to closed hand crimp is holding me back. What I mean by not being able to do it is that when I try to put my thumb over my index finger, between the first and second knuckle, it is uncomfortable. It feels like my thumb isn't long enough if that makes any sense. People tell me that it can be a stronger way to crimp but for me it always feels weaker. I was wondering if anyone else is in the same boat and pretty much only open hand crimps or if this is something I should really try to work on. I don't know if it matters but I am built on the bigger side for climbers cause at 6'1 I am usually around 190-200lbs

David Nguyen · · New Orleans, LA · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 5

I would just focus on climbing and technique. Concentrate on footwork and climbing open-handed. By climbing with an open-hand, you'll train your crimp grip, but not vice versa. I wouldn't worry about training at this stage unless you have impeccable footwork/technique. If you're worried about weight, a better diet should help.

Finn The Human · · The Land of Ooo · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 106
Michael G. wrote:I don't know if it matters but I am built on the bigger side for climbers cause at 6'1 I am usually around 190-200lbs
I don't think this is really an issue. I'm 6'3", 180lbs and I can closed hand crimp fine.

That said, I wouldn't worry too much about it. In general, using a closed hand is an easy way to increase your power, but it's also not great for your body. It puts a lot of stress on your tendons, and if overused it can lead to elbow problems as well.

Personally, I make it a point to only use an open hand crimp unless I *really* need that extra oomph to make a move.
J Sundstrom · · San Diego, CA · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 185
Oh, your fingers hurt?

But honestly I tend to avoid closed hand crimps because it tweaks my fingers to use it and I need them (mostly) intact for my livelihood. Half-crimps seem to work just fine, and as David said, practice footwork. I find it ends up being a matter of footwork and calculated moves by which I can get away with avoiding a closed crimp.
jim.dangle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 5,882

I am about your size and do the same thing. I open-grip everything and as result it always seems like I am holding on for dear life and barely make it to the top of a lot of boulder problems.

I used to worry about it but the truth is open-handed grip is far better for your fingers, and most climbers probably don't do it enough and therefore have weaker open-handed grip. While technically closed grip may be stronger it is sort of relative. If you train open-handed grip (which most people recommend) then you will get stronger at it (and be in better shape healthwise).

One other thing: you say you can't crimp with the thumb between the first and second knuckle-- this sounds weird! Try just putting your thumb over the tip of you index just enough to hold it down.

Good luck,

JIm

Jan Tarculas · · Riverside, Ca · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 917
Michael G. wrote: What I mean by not being able to do it is that when I try to put my thumb over my index finger, between the first and second knuckle, it is uncomfortable.
I think you're doing it wrong...usually people close hand crimp with their thumb over the tip of the index finger or right in front of the 1st knuckle. or partially on top of the tip of the index finger and partially on the hold it self for support.
Rob Gordon · · Hollywood, CA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 115

People always talk about crimping behind bad for tendons and risk of injury, but I've never had an issue crimping anything, and I weigh 200 lbs. Finger injuries and tweaks, for me, have all come from open hand attempts at crimping/half crimping and pockets when I half crimp them.

There may be some truth to the tendonitis correlation though. I have never considered it, but I did used to get tendonitis pretty bad.

I suggest figuring out how to crimp. Especially if you weigh as much as I do, it's the only way to climb stuff with small holds.

Mike Gilbert · · Bend, OR · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 21

Thanks for the advise all. I love that I got a Happy Gilmore video and told to go on a diet haha

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Training Forum
Post a Reply to "Closed hand crimping"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.