Close to the Edge
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looking up the areté, right before the crux
The crux section is actually a new progression in this route. Fred re-bolted this one so that you have to shift onto the areté from the face after the first or second bolt. There's this sharp right-hand crimp I kinda had to throw to but the feet are good.
El Niño Wall
You'll have to rap down to lead this route.
Set up a top belay to climb out.
Reference ACSD Pocket Guide
coming down from my first lead of this climb... l...
By Dan G0D5H411
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jan 13, 2014
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Not sure if I did the route correctly but it seemed somewhat contrived the whole way. The second bolt was extremely difficult to clip with ledgefall potential. The next 3 or 4 bolts consisted of the following movement: climb up on obvious holds, move WAY right to clip, move back left, climb up again and repeat. Following the bolt line would have included overhanging terrain on marginal holds and little feet, hard to imagine it going at low 5.10. At about the 3/4 mark, the bolt line and the holds converge on the arete, at which point the climbing becomes very fun and exciting.