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Cloister Frock 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Howard Birkhart, Bill Serniuk, Errett Allen
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,034
Submitted By: Errett Allen on Nov 9, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Joell on "Cloister Frock" 5.9.

Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

Begin about 30 feet left of Going to the Chapel on the same formation. Climb up to the second bolt in a large scoop, pull the crux (5.9), and climb past four more bolts. You can then step diagonally up and right to clip the seventh bolt of Going to the Chapel, and either finish up that route or traverse further diagonally up and right to the anchor of Simplexity.

One rope will allow a rappel from the Simplexity anchor, however one rope will *NOT* reach the ground from the Going to the Chapel anchor, but you can do a short rap from this anchor to the Simplexity anchor and thence to the ground.


Protection 

7-9 draws, depending on how you finish.



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By joell
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 15, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This is a fun route that is tucked away so not visible unless you know to look for it. We met Errett & Bill (the guys who put the route up) and they pointed it out, else we'd never have noticed it. To find it, stand at the base of "Going to the Chapel" and look up the gully to your left. There is a huge rock chocked about 6 feet above the bottom rock in the constriction. The bolts are on your right (same rock as Going to the Chapel) just before these large rocks.

The 5.9 portion only runs for 4 bolts, but it is solid 5.9 throughout, thus a lot of fun.

By John Marsella
From: Berthoud, CO
May 12, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The rock down low is fairly dirty / flaky; this makes for a medium pucker-factor.

Sustained climbing down low eases and eventually turns to a very run-out scramble (40'ish of 5.2?) to the anchors (2 cold-shut types).