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Wizard's Gate
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Afterlife  S 
Black Magic  S 
Book of Spells T 
Cloak and Dagger S 
Crystal Staircase S 
Dark Horse S 
Dead End  T 
Fantasia T 
G3 S 
Gatekeeper, The S 
Guillotine, The S 
Magic Carpet Ride  S 
Magic Dagger S 
Merlin's Magic Corner T 
Ravenclaw T 
Riding with the Ravens S 
Take Me to Your Leader S 
Witchway Arete S 
Wizard's Path S 

Cloak and Dagger 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Jonathan Siegrist, 2009
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,595
Submitted By: Jonathan Siegrist on Aug 23, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Topo.

Description 

This is a beast of a climb that demands respect. Clipping the chains requires a diverse pallet of climbing techniques. Begin the cloak with immediate difficulty that continues until you reach the highly visible huecos towards the middle of the climb. Slopping edges and important body positioning characterize this lower section that is the route's crux. Manage a rest in the middle of the climb before firing into the dagger. This exposed arete is thuggish and tends to be extremely tiring at such a high altitude, especially after climbing the bottom.

Cloak and Dagger is perhaps one of the better 5.13s in the entire Front Range. Get after it!!


Location 

The line follows the bolts out of the shield and through the upper arete on the right side of the overhanging alcove.


Protection 

11 bolts and chains. Mandatory stick-clip.



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By reboot
From: Westminster, CO
Jul 22, 2012
rating: 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a

The loose flake right of the 3rd bolt is completely gone now. This significantly changes the right "variation", if still possible. Regardless of how one gets past the 3rd bolt, the traverse is probably a bit harder now that the broken flake eliminated a good foot hold. Maybe it's 13c again?

By Patrick Vernon
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jul 23, 2012

Arrggghhh nooooo!!