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The Pillar of Payan
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Cliptomaniac S 
Just Blessed T 

Cliptomaniac 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: FA G. Payan and J. Thompson, July 1998, FFA Jack Fieldhouse, Aug 1998
Page Views: 489
Submitted By: Peter Spindloe on Aug 28, 2008

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End of the first crux of Cliptomaniac. Thank you s...

Description 

This is the left arete at The Pillar of Payan. This is one of the longest and consistently difficult sport climbs in Squamish. The whole thing is just one long technical crux, brutally difficult to figure out initially, but it succumbs to being worked as once the moves are figured out, it's not as physical as most routes at the grade.

This route on its own is worth the trip into The Valley of Shaddai.


Protection 

At least 14 bolts to a two bolt anchor. After the last bolt, the climbing gets easier, but a few cams (.5 to #2 Camalot) took the sting out of the unknown.



Photos of Cliptomaniac Slideshow Add Photo
Brad starting Cliptomaniac in The Valley of Shaddai.
Brad starting Cliptomaniac in The Valley of Shadda...
Brad working out the moves on Cliptomaniac.  The route continues out of the frame.  Sorry about posting a picture of you hanging, Brad, but this shot shows the route better than any other I took...
Brad working out the moves on Cliptomaniac. The r...
Basically my favorite heel hook move i have encountered yet...time to get ready for a delicate traverse.
Basically my favorite heel hook move i have encoun...
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