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Clipping directly to cam slings.
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Dec 29, 2011
25' drop...wheeeeee!
This is something that's been bugging me for a while and I haven't been able to get a straight answer to IRL. When placing cams in a vertical (or near vertical) crack, the biner on the sling is oriented perpendicular to the rock face (either gate out or gate in).

If you're climbing directly above the cam with the gate facing out then you're basically back clipped since in a fall the rope can pass across the gate (depending on which way you come off).

If the gate is facing into the plane of the wall it risks being smacked open by the edge of the crack in a fall.

This problem pretty much disappears when extending the placement, but I know it's a fairly common practice to clip directly to the cam slings. So how do you avoid these issues?
JesseT
From Portland, OR
Joined May 5, 2011
114 points
Dec 29, 2011
JesseT wrote:
This problem pretty much disappears when extending the placement
Yarp
Joined Jan 16, 2011
6 points
Dec 29, 2011
Buenos Dias!
JLP wrote:
Flip the biner, when appropriate.

+1
-sp
From East-Coast
Joined May 25, 2007
80 points
Dec 29, 2011
In 30+ years , i have rarely extended slings in vertical placements. john strand
From southern colo
Joined May 22, 2008
2,259 points
Dec 29, 2011
Maybe rock climbing isn't for you.

"Climbing is inherently dangerous...it is impossible to eliminate all risk."
Mike Anderson
From Colorado Springs, CO
Joined Nov 15, 2004
3,094 points
Dec 29, 2011
Mike Anderson wrote:
Maybe rock climbing isn't for you. "Climbing is inherently dangerous...it is impossible to eliminate all risk."


Nice, Mike. Hey, the guy had a safety question - so he should quit climbing because he asked?
FrankPS
From Atascadero, CA
Joined Nov 19, 2009
116 points
Dec 29, 2011
25' drop...wheeeeee!
Yarp: Agreed, which is why I usually do extend my cam placements, but sometimes that extra foot or 2 can make the difference between hitting a ledge or not.

Muttonface: thanks for the thorough response.

JLP:

JLP wrote:
Flip the biner, when appropriate.


I like it.

Mike:

Mike Anderson wrote:
"Climbing is inherently dangerous...it is impossible to eliminate all risk."


It's true, but that doesn't mean that trying to thoroughly understand those risks in inappropriate.


Thanks, all.
JesseT
From Portland, OR
Joined May 5, 2011
114 points
Dec 29, 2011
Well, if it's that big of a deal for you I guess you could always clip another biner to the one clipped to the sling. This would change the orientation of the gate by 90 degrees while only adding about 3 inches to your fall. Good luck out there and stay SAFE! (yer still gonna die) Yarp
Joined Jan 16, 2011
6 points
Administrator
Dec 29, 2011
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
this is something i don't really care for with the new C4's versus the previous single stem camalots. the orientation of the sling (and therefore the biner) changed, for the worse.

for splitter cracks, i usually rotate the biner so that the gate is facing into the crack, usually with the biner opening on top.
slim
Joined Dec 1, 2004
2,001 points


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