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Clipping directly to cam slings.
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By JesseT
From Portland, OR
Dec 29, 2011
25' drop...wheeeeee!

This is something that's been bugging me for a while and I haven't been able to get a straight answer to IRL. When placing cams in a vertical (or near vertical) crack, the biner on the sling is oriented perpendicular to the rock face (either gate out or gate in).

If you're climbing directly above the cam with the gate facing out then you're basically back clipped since in a fall the rope can pass across the gate (depending on which way you come off).

If the gate is facing into the plane of the wall it risks being smacked open by the edge of the crack in a fall.

This problem pretty much disappears when extending the placement, but I know it's a fairly common practice to clip directly to the cam slings. So how do you avoid these issues?


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By Yarp
Dec 29, 2011

JesseT wrote:
This problem pretty much disappears when extending the placement


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By -sp
From East-Coast
Dec 29, 2011
Buenos Dias!

JLP wrote:
Flip the biner, when appropriate.

+1


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By john strand
From southern colo
Dec 29, 2011

In 30+ years , i have rarely extended slings in vertical placements.


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By Mike Anderson
From Dayton, OH
Dec 29, 2011

Maybe rock climbing isn't for you.

"Climbing is inherently dangerous...it is impossible to eliminate all risk."


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By FrankPS
From Atascadero, CA
Dec 29, 2011

Mike Anderson wrote:
Maybe rock climbing isn't for you. "Climbing is inherently dangerous...it is impossible to eliminate all risk."


Nice, Mike. Hey, the guy had a safety question - so he should quit climbing because he asked?


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By JesseT
From Portland, OR
Dec 29, 2011
25' drop...wheeeeee!

Yarp: Agreed, which is why I usually do extend my cam placements, but sometimes that extra foot or 2 can make the difference between hitting a ledge or not.

Muttonface: thanks for the thorough response.

JLP:

JLP wrote:
Flip the biner, when appropriate.


I like it.

Mike:

Mike Anderson wrote:
"Climbing is inherently dangerous...it is impossible to eliminate all risk."


It's true, but that doesn't mean that trying to thoroughly understand those risks in inappropriate.


Thanks, all.


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By Yarp
Dec 29, 2011

Well, if it's that big of a deal for you I guess you could always clip another biner to the one clipped to the sling. This would change the orientation of the gate by 90 degrees while only adding about 3 inches to your fall. Good luck out there and stay SAFE! (yer still gonna die)


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By slim
Administrator
Dec 29, 2011
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.

this is something i don't really care for with the new C4's versus the previous single stem camalots. the orientation of the sling (and therefore the biner) changed, for the worse.

for splitter cracks, i usually rotate the biner so that the gate is facing into the crack, usually with the biner opening on top.


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