Clippers and Saws
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A real beauty!
The route begins by scrambling up to the 1st of two wide pods. You can walk a 3.5 cam to protect the first pod. Exit the first pod going over a small bulge with a finger crack. Continue up past the 2nd small pod into the 30’ splitter finger crack. Perfect ring locks and lay-backing off the lichen covered wall will get you near the top of the crack where you can grab a solid jug. Another 20’ of easy face climbing will get you to the anchors.
To find this stellar route follow the trail to the base of Tanner Dome. There will be a large boulder on your right. Follow the wall to the left (west) until you see a large, left-facing dihedral with the splitter finger crack 40’ up.
0.3 Camalot - 3.5 Camalot. Doubles or even triple 0.4 size. Gray Alien is the ideal, but 0.4 Camalot works fine. Leave the nuts on the ground. I used a 60m rope.
By Glenn Schuler
From: Monument, Co.
Mar 4, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
This is one of the better crack climbs around for the grade. I feel it's on par with Vanishing Point, Rasmussen's & Finger Lickin' Good at Turkey. Continuous & well protected, this route is fantastic.
There is now a second pitch to this route. Looked like all bolts and quality climbing above. Anybody know anything about it?