Clip It or Skip It (aka Skip It or Clip It)  5.11a

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Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 200 feet Consensus:  5.11a [details] FA:  Fred Aschert, 1989 Submitted By:  mountainmicah83 on Sep 26, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Seasonal falcon nesting closures MORE INFO >>> The East Face of North Gateway is closed to climbers every year from around Feb 1 until early August, depending on when the birds fledge. It's not posted out there, but since the closure has been in effect for 20+ years it is incumbent on climbers to know about closures by stopping in at the visitor center and asking. The falcons always nest in a big pothole above the traverse ledge and below the Kissing Camels arch. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

The crux of the route is trying not to aid it as you slip and slide your way up the sandy, breakable, dime-size ledges. Luckily there are about 16 or so pitons on the first pitch, and it is great for your head until you reach the last one with a healthy 30' runout to the anchors. If you decide to continue on, it is probably better to skip the anchors and head to the top on much more brittle terrain with standard Garden protection of spaced out, manky pitons.

Location 

Go up the Tourist Gully to the second eye bolt and/or just below the bomber set of 3 anchors and look right. It is the line of pitons just all a few feet apart.

This is just right of Chatters.

Protection 

Pitons. Lots of them on the first pitch.