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Just before you get to the Little Twin Owls (after the large Jaws boulder and the obvious, crystalline "tooth" boulder), identify a boulder on the right with a right-angling slash (to the left is a small pinnacle). The slash is very slick and insecure. It leads to a no-hands stance from which one can downclimb or continue to the top of the boulder via a scary 5.8 crack/slab.
Possibly a pad and spotter, though not necessary...the fall tends to be unexpected and your feet are very near your hands.
|By Mitch Musci|
Nov 2, 2010
An excellent, physical problem with tricky footwork. The more you can commit to the layback and get your feet high, the more success you will have. I don't know why Charles posted this and Jaws both as V0s, but Clingon feels about V4, as does Jaws if you combine the traverse and the top out.
|By Charles Vernon|
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 5, 2010
I actually didn't rate these V0. Back in the early days of the site, I think it was possible to rate them with the B-scale, and I vaguely remember rating them B1 (I didn't "get" the V-scale back then and in some ways still don't, but I understand it well enough to know that these are not V0!). Someone must have changed the rating to the V-scale during one of the upgrades.
Edit: I just changed my rating of this and Jaws to V3 which I believe are their consensus ratings in the guides, though I could be wrong.