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> Grub Street
Cling Peaches
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3 from 6
votes
Routes in Grub Street
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Agonal T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Cider Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cling Peaches T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Grub Street T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Old Style T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rosebud T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sodbuster T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Peter Croft, Robin Barley, 1978 |
| Page Views: | 1,239 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Geoff Georges on Aug 6, 2015 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
yet another excellent route at the Malamute. It was graded 10d originally, feels more 10c to me.
Pitch 1) begin on Old Style, veer off on bolted dyke till you reach the ledge, crux between 1st and 2nd bolt and reaching crack, old bolts ( 3 ) and some gear, not too dirty seldom climbed. ( original start was straight up from bog further right, never climbed)
Pitch 2) 4 star 10c pitch, starts at far right end of ledge with a glue in U-bolt. traverse right, pass cedar, bolt, pull though roof on good holds, thin crack up to Midway ledge.
Pitch 3) move to your left and start up crack to small ledge, traverse on slanting crack right with several bolts ahead, traverse left till gaining thin seam ( crux), good finger crack above till at base of Stooges slab (10c) This is also described as a pitch of the "Grub St. Connection".
Pitch 4) Rosebud was the original finish and only route on this slab in 1978 with no bolts (bolts added later), it is the 3rd line from the left with Moe on the right. The chain anchor above is on this route. We did the Curly finish furthest left with 6 bolts.
Pitch 1) begin on Old Style, veer off on bolted dyke till you reach the ledge, crux between 1st and 2nd bolt and reaching crack, old bolts ( 3 ) and some gear, not too dirty seldom climbed. ( original start was straight up from bog further right, never climbed)
Pitch 2) 4 star 10c pitch, starts at far right end of ledge with a glue in U-bolt. traverse right, pass cedar, bolt, pull though roof on good holds, thin crack up to Midway ledge.
Pitch 3) move to your left and start up crack to small ledge, traverse on slanting crack right with several bolts ahead, traverse left till gaining thin seam ( crux), good finger crack above till at base of Stooges slab (10c) This is also described as a pitch of the "Grub St. Connection".
Pitch 4) Rosebud was the original finish and only route on this slab in 1978 with no bolts (bolts added later), it is the 3rd line from the left with Moe on the right. The chain anchor above is on this route. We did the Curly finish furthest left with 6 bolts.
Location
furthest right on the Grub Street wall.
Starts on the Old Style 5.9 ( where the tree bridge crosses the tide pool pond)
Rap stations all the way down the wall, starting on one of the Stooges anchors.
One can also approach the base from the south side trail ( start near 99 pedestrian bridge, make left where other trail goes up sandy hill.
Starts on the Old Style 5.9 ( where the tree bridge crosses the tide pool pond)
Rap stations all the way down the wall, starting on one of the Stooges anchors.
One can also approach the base from the south side trail ( start near 99 pedestrian bridge, make left where other trail goes up sandy hill.
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