Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Cling or Fling Corridor
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beautiful Dreamer (aka Gullywog) T 
Beautiful Screamer T 
Cling or Fling S 
Czech Cows Say Boo T 
Green Mansions T 
Lost Boys T 
Patanjali's Sutra TR 
Say No to Jugs S 

Cling or Fling 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Herb Laeger, Eve Laeger & Bob Kamps, 9/87
Page Views: 430
Submitted By: C Miller on Sep 27, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Cling or Fling, 5.11a

Description 

This climbs the attractive face on the south side of the corridor and lies more or less across from the route Lost Boys (5.10d).

Thin crimping up crisp edges is what you'll encounter on this enjoyable, but all too short route, that's reminscent of the Oyster Bar routes. Two stars out of five.

Protection 

3 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap (all 3/8")


Comments on Cling or Fling Add Comment
Show which comments
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Feb 27, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

The first bolt can clipped via leaning in from a boulder before taking off on this cool route.
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Mar 27, 2007

After topping out, you'll need to boulder over the huge chockstone that spans the corridor to reach the opposite side where there's a slung block rap station (ignore the old sling remnants on the huge chockstone itself).

Take some webbing, you may want to replace the existing mank that we pulled a rope through a few times, and if you're generous, put some rings on it too, there are none up there.

Route is ok, somewhat repetitive thin edging/crimping.
By C Miller
Administrator
Mar 27, 2007

I'm guessing the 2 bolt anchor/rap atop this route (and the one atop Say No To Jugs) has been chopped. Too bad whoever chopped the bolts didn't do something more worthwhile - like replacing the old 1/4' bolts on the nearby Brits In Drag, or any of hundreds of other rotting time bombs.
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Mar 27, 2007

Yeah Chris, as of 3/17 they were chopped. It was my first time on all those routes, so I don't know how long ago it happened. And these routes kinda blend together in my mind so it's hard to remember which was on which side. But basically, anything that tops out on the Say No side, you'll have to scramble over to the other side.

Makes it a bit of a PITA to get off these climbs. Getting over/across the chockstone is easy enough..but there was no reason to chop them. After rapping off the webbing and pulling through a few times (no rap rings), we realized this was the rap for all the routes on both sides of the corridor, added an old locker to the station and attempted to crank it down tight enough to discourage somebody from bootying it.

On a similar note, someone has tried to chop the station atop Colorado Crack and mangled one of the two bolts. It's not dangerously unsafe at this point, but sure is ugly and could use a replacement for the mangled one.
By MJW
From: Boise, ID
May 4, 2008

I also found the loss of anchor on these routes to be a PITA. Really absurd to have a fully bolted route w/o a bolted anchor. This seems to be common throughout the park. Instead, lets have people do repetitive walk-offs destroying vegetation?

The anchor on Colorado Crack is mank but currently backed up by a long, fresh sling and rap ring donated by a generous soul.