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 ADVANCED
Reynolds Hill
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bad Man with a Devil's Hand 
Barf Bucket Traverse 
Black Starr Chimney 
Bloodletting 
Climb and Punishment 
Climbs of Passion Exit 
Coffee Grinder 
Connecticut Yankee 
Cosmic Debris 
Fat Man's Demise 
Finger Grinder 
Fist Crack, The 
Glenda's Chimney 
Hug Jombo 
Hung Like a Horse 
I'd Rather Be In Philadelphia 
K.P. 
Klink 
Labyrinth 
Maiden 
Matron 
Moor's Crossing 
Peach Cobbler 
Penis Dimension 
Pooh Corner 
Robert's Rectification 
Serpentine 
Sky Line 
Spatial Relations 
Time Quake 
Tombstone Crack 
Unknown left of Maiden 
Unsorted Routes:

Climbs of Passion Exit 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Cowan, Mattson, McWhirter, '83
Page Views: 702
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on Oct 8, 2005
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BETA PHOTO: Julian Poush on Climbs of Passion.

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Description 

This line climbs Climb and Punishment for its first 50 feet before taking the finger crack that exits on the left. The crack involves a relatively short battle to stay balanced whilst jamming. It seemed best to belay just past the lip before continuing up and left to reach the jumbled rocks above Finger Grinder, where easy scrambling down through blocks leads to the Glenda's Chimney rappel.

The line has quality moves, especially with the approach via Climb and Punishment. Plenty of no hands rest options exist just prior to cutting into the finger crack, including the version I found that resembled sitting in a Barker Lounger. Perhaps it was my creativity in resting before heading into the line, but I still think the line is soft for the Vedauwoo 11c grade. [Perhaps it is] comparable to Max Factor but less sustained.


Protection 

Gear from 3" to tips. [It is useful] to have extra 1-3 inch gear for a belay anchor over the lip.

Recommended rack with grain of salt: doubles #3-0.5 BD + 2x #1 TCU + (belay) one extra #2-#4 Camalot + 1-2" pieces.



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By nolteboy
Oct 12, 2005

On the subject of "cutting"... I recommend a wrap or two of tape for the digits on this one. If you blow a foot on the steep left wall and your corn-fed self rips said digits out of (and downward thru) the crack's serrated edges.... Some of the worst crack-gobi's I've had.

By P Takeda
Aug 19, 2007

Climbs of Passion Exit now has a two bolt anchor on slab above the end of the crack. This anchor allows a lower-off (90 feet). Hopefuly this will make the route a bit more popular as it is high quality and could clean up a bit. And yes, its a bargain for Vedauwoo 5.11c...

By EldoFiend
From: WY
Jul 27, 2010

Although not very sustained, the crux moves on this climb feel harder to me than the crux moves on Max Factor, Eagle Brand, Bordwalk, or 4th of July Crack. And be careful lowering off of the anchors - I used up every foot of a 60m rope.