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Climbing/Crag packs
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By andreis
May 13, 2013

Hi,

I'm picking between 3 packs:

Mammut Neon Gear 45
Mountain Hardwear Splitter 38
and 1st generation Arcteryx Miura 50

Mostly be used for sport climbing and occasional top-rope.

If you have compared or owned any of these parks, I'd appreciate your word of advice!

Thank you in advance!

PS:
The only reason I was looking into investing money into the crag pack is that it can also double as a great travel pack thanks to the panel loading system. MH Splitter looks the best as it has pretty smart internal compartments, however I do like the streamline look of the Mammut. I'm wondering if anyone here used either one as a travel bag without gear.

Thank you!


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By Jon Lachelt
From Fort Collins, CO
May 13, 2013

I'm really pleased with this. It is super easy to load up, and it is comfortable for short-medium hikes to the crag.

www.pushergear.com/The-Sack_p_84.html

If you are hoping for something you could use other than for a crag pack then this might not be what you want.


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By Matt N
From Santa Barbara, CA
May 13, 2013
OTL

Miura 50 is close to perfect. You will be soon hounded on where to get one.

On your list, I'd say Neon Gear 2nd, MH Splitter 3rd (too small for crag pack if you like your rack and rope inside). But if price matters and you don't mind strapping your rope on top, the Splitter can be had for $80-90 at sierratradingpost.com when you get a good coupon. (edit) noticed you said sport - the Splitter is fine for a sport rack, rope, and harness, inside. And also currently sold out from STP.


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By Jon Zucco
From Denver, CO
May 13, 2013
yaak crack Red Rock Canyon, NV

I'm super happy with my 1st gen miura 50. It's a great crag pack.


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By mr. mango
May 13, 2013
north wash

Black Diamond Demon Duffel


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By bearbreeder
May 13, 2013

honestly any pack will work

just get what fits best ... as thats what matters when yr carrying the weight

plenty of people climb just fine without "cragging" packs

;)


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By Christopher Gibson
From Frisco, Texas
May 13, 2013
Changing leads.

+1 What Bearbreeder wrote. Anything over 30 is to much bag for sport cragging or climbing and encourages bringing to much stuff.


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By Peter Hurtgen
From Fort Collins, CO
May 14, 2013
at the rap from yellow spur

get a used pack that is in decent condition and fits well and you'll be happy. your gonna beat it up anyway cragging. 40/45 is about the perfect size for everything youll need.


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By Mal H.
May 14, 2013

Of the bags you listed I'd say Miura 50 for sure with Mammut and MH tied for second. I think backcountry.com has the Splitter and Neon on sale right now.

That said, I just got a Fish Atom Smasher for a crag pack and couldn't be happier. Yeah, it's just a big white vinyl tube, but it works perfectly and is burly as hell.


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By jmeizis
From Colorado Springs, CO
May 14, 2013
The Beginning of Mr. Clean (5.8) at the Barkeater Cliffs in Adirondack Park NY.

Why do you need such large bags for sport climbing? You could probably just roll everything up into a rope bag if you wanted.

I carry a BD Axis 33 for everything done in a day. I can fit a rope, rack, harness, helmet, lunch, water, and a jacket or two depending on the size of the rack I'm carrying. When I have to carry more I can strap the rope on the outside.

A rope, harness, rack of draws, and the other little things are only about 30 liters. If you are sharing gear with a partner it's even less. Why such a big bag?


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By Jeremy Kasmann
From Denver, CO
May 14, 2013

Yes, it is a waste of money. Way too big for sport climbing. Encourages bringing too much stuff. Really should just roll everything up in a rope bag (though who wastes money on a rope bag when you can use an Ikea bag??). I am not going to try to justify the insanity.

If you can still get a Miura 50, get it. People at crags have started asking if they can buy mine.


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By Jon Zucco
From Denver, CO
May 14, 2013
yaak crack Red Rock Canyon, NV

After 5 years of regular use, this is the only issue I've encountered with the Miura 50.  Not really an issue though as it doesn't affect functionality.
After 5 years of regular use, this is the only issue I've encountered with the Miura 50. Not really an issue though as it doesn't affect functionality.


One burly pack.
One burly pack.


if you have access to one of these bad boys, jump on that shit.


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By Mal H.
May 14, 2013

I can't believe how short-sighted and stupid Arcteryx was for redesigning the Miura packs.


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By andreis
May 14, 2013

The only reason I was looking into investing money into the crag pack is that it can also double as a great travel pack thanks to the panel loading system. MH Splitter looks the best as it has pretty smart internal compartments, however I do like the streamline look of the Mammut. I'm wondering if anyone here used either one as a travel bag without gear.

Thank you!


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By Mal H.
May 14, 2013

andreis wrote:
The only reason I was looking into investing money into the crag pack is that it can also double as a great travel pack thanks to the panel loading system. MH Splitter looks the best as it has pretty smart internal compartments, however I do like the streamline look of the Mammut. I'm wondering if anyone here used either one as a travel bag without gear. Thank you!


Well, the Mammut is more like a duffel bag with shoulder straps and the Splitter is a traditional daypack. I would think the duffel would be better for travel.


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By Mike wand
From San Marcos
May 14, 2013
El Capitan reservoir from the top of ECM

+1 for the Black Diamond Demon Duffel. I love this simple pack for Jtree trad and sport at New Jack City.


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By Ray Pinpillage
From West Egg
May 14, 2013
Cleo's Needle

bearbreeder wrote:
honestly any pack will work...


Until it doesn't. I ruined a bunch of packs cragging until I bought a Muira 50.

Buy a pack with a padded lower and heavy fabric. Lightweight packs don't last dragging them through the dirt with a rack in the bottom (or side).


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By bearbreeder
May 14, 2013

Ray Pinpillage wrote:
Until it doesn't. I ruined a bunch of packs cragging until I bought a Muira 50. Buy a pack with a padded lower and heavy fabric. Lightweight packs don't last dragging them through the dirt with a rack in the bottom (or side).


plenty of cheap packs with durable enough fabric ... its not like yr hauling em up chimneys or walls on multi

and plenty of people who climb just fine without "cragging" packs ;)


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By Bill Shubert
May 14, 2013
Me on Kamakaze 5.10a (Ozone)

I've been really happy with my REI Pinnacle 35. It's not expensive and works well. If I run out of space inside it has straps so I can attach ropes on top or the sides. Not a huge pack but big enough for what you'll carry on a day of sport climbing.


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By Joe Cappiello
May 14, 2013

+1 for the 1st gen Miura 50. I've used it for sport cragging, trad cragging, and trips where i'm taking photos primarily and have a huge amount of camera gear, rigging gear, and static rope - pretty much any time I've needed to haul a lot of stuff. It fit my creek rack and a 70m rope with ease plus all the other cragging essentials. The roll top can be cinched down to compress light loads or left open to make the bag function somewhat like a haul bag. It splits fully down the middle via the beefy zippers on the sides, so you can lay the pack flat and sort out the rack. You can also use the compression straps to rig up the unzipped pack to work like a crazy creek chair for long belays. The suspension is pretty comfortable, but definitely not good enough for long hikes or backpacking type applications. The pack has compression straps on the top to attach a rope too.

My only complaint is that Arcteryx knew what they were doing and designed the pack so only their Pali rope bag works well with it. It's definitely not a necessary accessory but it fits perfectly in the bottom of the pack and compresses a 70m rope to nothing.


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By doligo
May 14, 2013
Jose Cuervo Fruitcups dirtbag style

Christopher Gibson wrote:
+1 What Bearbreeder wrote. Anything over 30 is to much bag for sport cragging or climbing and encourages bringing to much stuff.


Why not bring extra stuff? It's cragging after all. If you have room to spare you could pack in a six-pack and maybe even a grill.


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By Ray Pinpillage
From West Egg
May 14, 2013
Cleo's Needle

bearbreeder wrote:
plenty of cheap packs with durable enough fabric ... its not like yr hauling em up chimneys or walls on multi and plenty of people who climb just fine without "cragging" packs ;)


You can assign whatever name and price point you'd like but the criteria is durability. I'm sure you can make any old piece of shit backpack work and save money for something else but that wasn't the question. However, since we're throwing out opinions, I own, and have owned, a lot of backpacks and the "cheap" ones almost never stack up. The Miura 50 is a standout product that brings both durability and design to the table, it is almost certainly a product that will last a long time. The Muira 50 is also one of the most comfortable backpacks I have ever owned.

Too bad Arc fucked it up so bad.


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By teece303
From Highlands Ranch, CO
May 15, 2013
Aiding.

I have the Neon Gear 45.

It's a nice pack. Fitting a trad rack and a rope inside makes it very tight.

It's biggest weaknes is the lame suspension system it has.


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By harpo-the-climber
May 15, 2013

I just use a second hand haul bag, but not for long approaches, when I use my Cilo.


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By Mark Hudon
May 15, 2013
On the North America Wall in 1977.

I really like my Metolius Crag Station as a cragging pack. It essentially has no suspension but it fits a longish body really well and I'm always amazed at how well it carries.
It works real well as a travel bag also.


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By kurt gregory
From reading, pa
May 15, 2013

Sierra Designs Prophecy 35!! best crag specific pack! it opens in a T design. one zipper down the front and two around the top. it splits the pack wide open making it so easy to get at your gear very quickly. and its bomber proof, very durable! give it a look


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