Metolius Offset TCUs

• Direct Axle Technology (DAT) makes Metolius cams the lightest in the world; opens more placement options in bottoming cracks and shallow pin-scars while providing the best visibility of cam lobes in tricky placements.

• Opposing tube and Dyneema sling colors enable easy identification as an Offset TCU. The color of the sewn sling denotes the size of the two smaller cam lobes; the tubing color represents the large cam lobe size.

• CNC machined cam lobes from 7075 T-6 aluminum, for the tightest tolerances and greatest strength to weight ratio.

• 13.25 degree cam angle for more outward force means Greater Holding Power!

• U-shaped body for greater durability & unparalleled control during placement and retraction

• Range finder system makes them easier and safer to place. Does anyone actually use this placement aid?

Great write up. I've been wondering about these for a while. You answered most of my questions.

Now that's the kind of review I like to see. Thanks.

My partner and I recently used these for 2 weeks in Yosemite and they were the best pieces on our rack. Every time we placed one we felt utterly confident in the piece. I like them better than my Alien offsets, which for some reason just don't seem to sit as well in the cracks as the TCU offsets (though I still love my old Aliens). They worked great for aiding on El Cap as well as free climbing routes like the Rostrum and Serenity Crack. I can only imagine they would be incredible at Lumpy Ridge, the Needles, or just about any other crack area. Anywhere the cracks vary in size, are pin scarred, or flaring these will place well (so pretty much anywhere except splitter desert cracks). I actually like the less flexible stem as it makes them really easy to place then the Aliens. Especially when you are high-stepping or gripped free climbing in a difficult position. I don't know who would ever use the range finder except while playing around with them at REI...but I guess that is a plus.

As much as I love BD, these seem to place better and I had more confidence in them than the C3's (which aren't offsets, but just another comparison). My only complaint is that sometimes I find it more difficult to get my fingers properly placed on the TCU trigger than Aliens and C3's. Overall, I would highly recommend them.

I had a couple of errors about the width of the cam and holding power that I've now fixed. I also added a link to the Metolius web site that explains in greater detail about cam angles, holding power, etc.

Great review, John.

"I was so impressed with them that I would start talking to myself about them as I bounce tested them enthusiastically."

Methinks you solo aid climb too much... Ha ha.

Been thinkin' I need to pick up a set of these. Big fan of the Metolius cams, especially in Zion sandstone (where they've held a fall a time or two for me, when I thought I was going for the big ride). And, they are light.

Need to put them on my x-mas list.

Thanks!

Thanks for the great review. Helpful, good stuff.

Thanks for the feedback.

Brian,

Yes you're probably right. I've been doing a fair bit lately but climbing will soon come to grinding halt once the snow starts to fly!

Hello .

Thanks for a great review. I own two sets of offset tcu's, and enjoy placing them as they take the bite off of many flared placements.
however, I must disagree with the comment regarding the head width. I've been climbing with both aliens hybrids and offset tcu's, and found that the u - stem design prevent some odd flared placement where the pin scar is too shallow to accept the metolius offset but will accept ( marginally ) an alien hybrid of similar size.
also, in those awkward placements, the flexibility of the tcu's seems to somewhat compromise the integrity of the placement, vs. an acceptable ( for body weight ) placement by the aliens.
on the other hand, aliens are hard to get, and their quality control falls short in comparison to metolius's standards.
to conclude, on those skechy aid pitches I tend to Carry both offsets tcu's and alien hybrids, and feel much more relaxed with a well placed metolius, but still plug a hybrid when all else fail.