Introduction

How It Works

Performance Notes From The Field

• Molded plastic gear loops. I’ve disliked these since I first saw them on a harness, specifically because of how small they often are and how they stick out from your sides. This may be a great feature when you’re only clipping bolts, but anyone who has carried an Indian Creek rack or groveled up squeezes on Valley trade routes wants large gear loops that don't stick out. The good news is that, although the gear loops on the WST harnesses are molded plastic, they hang freely at your sides, and are still large enough for a decent amount of gear. They are angled forward (I’m not sure how much this design actually helps) by default, but they can be reversed (I’m not sure why), or even removed altogether.

• Self-locking buckle. These are old news at this point, but ARC'TERYX’s take on them is smooth and easy to operate, and the aluminum has radiused edges to prevent strain on the webbing.

• Wear safety marker. The innards of the belay loop and tie-in points are constructed of orange fabric; when it becomes exposed it's time to retire the harness.

Bottom Line

• X-350a: An all-round harness with adjustable leg loops, four gear loops, a drop seat, haul loop, and slots for racking ice climbing gear. MSRP: $149.

• A-300a: A mountaineering/ski touring harness with adjustable leg loops, two gear loops, and a drop seat. MSRP: $135.

• R-320: An all-round harness with elasticized leg loops, four gear loops, a drop seat, and haul loop. MSRP: $125.

• R-280: A women-specific version of the R-320. MSRP: $125.

• S-240: A minimalist, high-end redpointing harness with more traditional leg loops (non-WST) and only two gear loops. MSRP: $99.

Thanks for the comprehensive and well-written review! You've definitely given some helpful info, and since I'm contemplating a new harness soon, I'll be giving Arc'teryx harnesses a closer look.

What's a drop seat?

nice review, josh! i'm testing one of these bad boys out for rc.com at the moment as well and so far, its been alot of fun. i can only hope my review is as well put together as yours!

nate- a drop seat is where the tethers that hold the leg loops to the back of the swami have a quick release, thus allowing you to do your business without removing your harness....a good thing for full day routes and/or big walls....

Great review. I am glad to hear that Arc'teryx is updating their harness line. I have been climbing in the Vapor harnesses for the past 10 years, and still consider the Vapor to be the best harness out there (at least for me). I am looking forward to trying out the new technology!

Thanks for the info. I have been trying to get info from Arcteryx for about a week about this harness.

I'm wondering if Arcteryx plan for a similar harness with a doubleBack buckles instead of one side buckles. Double are so convenient to center the harness !

I'm stoked. I work at REI in NC and we had a Arc'teryx rep come in and explain everything about it and I just ordered one today. Can't wait to have it come in. I'll revise my posting with my reviews of the harness.

~Nick~

There is one thing to be mentioned about this harness that I have not seen in a review yet... The slots for the ice-screw racks are perfectly placed. Most harnesses accept the plastic ice screw holders, but this harness has slots designed for them. Those slots are in a place where you can see the screws, but they are not so far forward that they get in your way. WHen your gripped on a pillar, the ability to spot those screws easily without twisting your body is very important. This is done (in design) by placing equal value on the placement of those screws as the placement of the quickdraws, and that makes sense as one is not useful without the other. Most harness place the quickdraw rack in a way that the screw placement becomes an after thought.

This is a good all around harness, but it truley excels with winter climbing. You can walk for hours without noticing its on. The designers are hard-core ice climbers, so its function iin winter stands above the rest.

I've gotten my X-350A out for a few days on ice now.

Holy crap is this thing comfortable! My last two ice harnesses were Black Diamond Blizzards, and this harness blows them away in terms of comfort, weight, and where the ice clipper slots are placed.

True, it was a ridiculously expensive harness, but after climbing some long routes with it in Cody, I'm extremely happy with the comfort and features of it.

The nice thing is since it is so light, I'll just use it as my rock climbing harness as well, which makes everything so much easier to deal with.

Kudos to Arc'Teryx for making a truly innovative harness and also putting the ice clipper slots in the right place!

I recently purchased one of these bad boys (R-320). As i expected, it is the most comfortable harness I've ever had on. Its virtually weightless and fits perfectly. It was everything i expected from an Arcterix product (read: from something expensive as hell).

However, my excitement faded slightly when one of the rear gear loops started falling apart. The stiff plastic shell pulled away from its connection at the loop's base on the second use and now clipping to that loop is slightly cumbersome. You can reattach it but it just falls apart again after a couple outings. I find myself clipping biners through the dangling plastic rather than the actual loop. I racked only some standard trad gear and never snagged it on anything. I have to say that after several more uses (probably 20 over the past 2 months) the gear loops seem to be pretty flimsy. I also learned the ring for the trail line will only hold aprx. 11 pounds. How can they hit such a home run with the overall design of the harness and whiff soooo bad on something stupid like gear loops? I expected more for the price....but its still a really comfortable harness that i'll keep using.

Ditto what Sam and Doug have said, but I REALLY wish you could open up the leg loops all the way (like on the Blizzard) so you can put the harness on without stepping through the waist/leg-loops. It's been ages since I've had to do that and it blows - especially on a small snow ledge or some such.

I have been rock climbing in an R-320 for almost a month now and am delighted. The overall fit and weight simply can not be beat. You hardly know it's even on. I would say it's eats into the hips an extra 10-20% at hanging belays, but that's worth it to me for the freedom of movement it presents. Didn't notice anything different on falls. The gear loops are well placed and large. Buckle system is easy to operate and the extra webbing from the waist draw webbing tucks away nicely.

It is not all positive as there are a few things to quibble over. The rear haul loop is a joke - I wouldn't even think about clipping a second rope to it on an alpine climb as it's only rated to 11 lbs. And good luck dropping the rear leg loop elastic risers with the harness on.

I've been looking at the R-320 for a little while now. I currently use the Vapor that I love, and a guy that got into it and started climibng with me got the R-320. Anyhow, Has anyone had any issues, comfort or anything else, with the buckles on these? On my Vapor the harness has the velcro then the webbing and buckle, that is the only thing I do not like about this harness, but I have not tried it and thought I'd ask.

Thanks for the time you put into this project, Josh! This is a great initial write-up of a seminal product.

On Friday, I went into the Bent Gate to pick up a "guest harness". We're getting toward the time of year when visitors are likely to be overwhelming chez Galibier. I was (and am still) very happy with my Wild Country Elite Syncro Ziplock, and was looking for a bare-bones harness to press into service for visiting climbers passing through.

Well, I tried on the X350a and was smitten ...

One correction to a follow-up post above. The Arc'teryx manual states that the haul loop is good for 15Kg. (33 Lbs.). The stated recommended load on the gear loops is, however the mentioned 5 Kg. (11 Lbs.). I too would prefer a bit more beef here. I suspect these are conservative numbers - to discourage bone-head mistakes like treating the loops as anchoring points.

I've only used it for one day, so I can't comment on durability.

As far as ergonomics are concerned, its four gear loops hold a ton of gear - more than any loops I've encountered. Even when used for rock, the ice-clippers (the ones between the pairs of gear loops) are still available for use, and can be pressed into service to hold more gear.

This harness truly has the potential to be (for me) to be a "do everything" rig - from trad to sport to ski mountaineering (likely not big wall, however ... dunno, never done any).

If you're a multi-harness guy (by season or inclination), then this harness could actually end up being a cost savings. Time will tell.

Oh yes ... both the WST "a" series (adjustable leg loops) as well as the Wild Country Elite Syncro Ziplock permit you to get out of your leg loops without un-tying. Try it!

Cheers,
Thom

Bought the S-240 for hard sport redpoints and to keep up with my partner tech wise. I have taken 15-20 whippers and had long sessions of belaying folks working out moves. It is as comfortable as any of the many harnesses I have used in the past. The light weight and fit really are nice. As stated above you hardly know it is on until you are tied into it and have some draws in the loops. Was bothered at first by the elastic in the leg loops but not any more. The snug fit keeps the loops in place and I used to the feel now. The gear loops are big enough to hold l0-12 draws a side. There are not too many clip up routes that need more than that. The price was steep but but I sold some of my buddies new Petzl Spirit draws on ebay so I could afford it.

I have the A-300a (the "mountaineering" one). Its an awesome harness just like the review says... BUT I wanted to share with potential users that the drop seat is basically unusable unless you have needle point fingers and are not wearing gloves. The clip is a tiny, metal, thin hook that I can barely undo even while not wearing the harness. It should be a big fat plastic quick release so I won't have to fear staying hydrated. So, if you have to relieve yourself half way up that icy col, I have one word for you: Depends.

The reviews here and on rc.com were excellent! Thanks for taking the time to post.

I have a R280, and have only "hung around" my home in it, trying to see if I keep it. As many say, the fit and lack of bulk is wonderful, and gear seems to hang nicely on the loops. The drop seat is manageable for me, similar to the Petzel Hirundos, though a quick release is a much easier system. The haul loop is pitiful (Arc'teryx should be a little embarrassed to release the harness with that!), but I'm thinking I can tie a line between the 2 rear gear loops and be happy.

My main concern is with the leg loops. They don't seem as comfortable as my padded harness when I'm hanging in it. They also seem a little on the tight side right now, but I'm thinking the elastic will stretch and provide the slightly increased sizing I'd wish for. I wonder if comfort will improve as well with use and stretch.

It's been 7-9 months since the reviews by Josh here and vegastradguy on rc.com. I'm curious what others think about the leg loop comfort question, and updates on general durability and satisfaction with the performance of this harness.

I appreciate your comments!

you know, i talked with arc'teryx about that gear loop, and it turns out that the plastic buckle is a deterrant factor to keep people from clipping their belay devices in it (along with the 0kn rating).

that said, the buckle tests to like 400lbs or something ridiculous, so its absolutely adequate for a trail line or haul line. just dont use it for aussie rappels!

i continue to love this harness- after a year of using it full time i cant imagine using another harness.

that said, BD is coming out with something similar and i should get a chance to review it within a couple months. we'll see!

I should have my review of the Black Diamond Big Gun harness up on the site in about a week.

Has no one else had any issues with the gear loops? Since my original post in this thread, the plastic casing on two additional loops has started falling apart. I know its not a super heavy duty harness meant for tons of abuse....but IMO it should be able to hold some basic trad gear without deteriorating.

Arc'teryx has a new harness out(M-280), designed specifically for mixed climbing. Check it out, kinda a mix of the sport harness and the X350: http://www.arcteryx.com/product.aspx?M-280

I'm happy with mine. I got it this past spring. The fit nails my size, so it's more comfortable than the BD Bigwall harness it replaced. Just depends on your dimensions, I guess. What more could you want in the haul loop? It holds a biner. I was figuring 100 lbs or so, but hearing 400 makes sense - certainly more than a rope, which is where I think they got the 11 lbs from. The drop seat doesn't work - oh well. I was mostly worried about a big rack on the thing, but that has turned out fine as well. The loops are a bit more commodious than on most harnesses and there is very little bunching or distortion of the waist belt with a big rack. I had my plastic piece separate once as mentioned above. I just snapped it back together. Seems if it causes me a problem in the future, I'll either use some electrical tape or send it back to Arcteryx. Their warranty support seems pretty good, I've found.