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Gear Review - ARC'TERYX WST Harnesses

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By NjC
Oct 2, 2008

I have been referring to the lexan D-ring which ArcTeryx identifies as the haul loop in my posts. Actually, when I first read it tested to 400 lbs, it struck me as a whole lot of weight, but I quickly dismissed it because it wasn't relevant to me, given the miniscule amount of weight I'd place there.

It's a good question to clarify.

By Kai Larson
From Boulder, Colorado
4 days ago
Tour Ronde North Face

I've found that the drop seat on these harnesses is pretty much impossible to use. The tab that the buckle goes into is too tight to easily release the buckle. Initially, I thought it was just my harness, but I checked out others, and they all seem to be that way. Even with the harness off, it's difficult to undo the buckle, with it on, I find it to be impossible.

I replaced the Arcteryx buckle with a Petzl buckle. Works much better. I can now drop the leg loops while wearing the harness.

vegastradguy wrote:
nice review, josh! i'm testing one of these bad boys out for rc.com at the moment as well and so far, its been alot of fun. i can only hope my review is as well put together as yours! nate- a drop seat is where the tethers that hold the leg loops to the back of the swami have a quick release, thus allowing you to do your business without removing your harness....a good thing for full day routes and/or big walls....

By doug s
From Boulder, CO
4 days ago
How I Send

I can't believe no one has mentioned the durability (or lack there of) - I have returned two of these because of what I would consider lack of quality construction - especially for the cost. Has anyone else had issues with this?

By Geoffrey M
4 days ago

I think I tried to operate the drop seat once and found found it rather difficult. Adjusting the length of the leg loop straps (the rear ones, attached to the drop seat clip) is also a major pain, and virtually impossible to do yourself with the harness on (which, of course, is how you need to do it to get the length right).

I have not found the leg loops to be uncomfortable, nor have I had any problems with the gear loops. They are made to pop apart so that you can reverse them. Perhaps, the person (people?) who had problems with them falling apart got a defective unit on which they do not snap together correctly?

I also have never used the "haul loop" because it didn't look like it would hold the weight of a locking biner, let alone a rope.

Additionally, I have found the buckles on both the waist belt and the leg loops (I have the X-350a) to loosen gradually over time, and require periodic tightening. I have heard of other people having similar problems with other harnesses, but never had any such problem with my previous harness (sorry, can't remember the model or manufacturer right now).

That said, I love the harness. It takes up a small fraction of the space in a pack compared to my old harness, weighs next to nothing and is as comfortable as anything I've used. When trad climbing, I use ice clippers attached to the slots between the gear loops to rack nuts and tri-cams, and find that I can manage a pretty unreasonable large rack in a well-organized and easily accessible manner.

There are several kinks and opportunities for improvement, but none of them make me want to go back to my bulky old harness.

By vegastradguy
From Henderson, NV
4 days ago
Vegastradguy follows the crux pitch of Western Swing on Windy Peak.

jfox wrote:
I'm a bit confused (sorry), are you all talking about the gear loops on the side, of which there are either 2 or 4 depending on what model, or are you talking about that little plastic ring/tab on the very back? I doubt that little piece of plastic would hold 400lbs.!


it sounds wild, but we're talking about that little plastic ring/tab on the very back- it does indeed hold 400lbs before breaking in the lab. crazy, eh?

as for the durability issue- i've started to hear some rumors about this, but i've had mine since Sept 2007 and it still looks brand new and was my only harness for 6 months- i've since changed to the R320, and i've had that one since Feb of '08, and again, its been my only harness for most of the past year (i'm testing the new BD thing currently, so i'm not wearing the arc'teryx as much)- literally no wear on the harness whatsoever. the S280 has been with my friend for...almost a year now and he's beat the crap out of it as well and it still looks new. i'm actually shocked that folks are experiencing premature wear on these harnesses....

By doug s
From Boulder, CO
4 days ago
How I Send

vegastradguy wrote:
i'm actually shocked that folks are experiencing premature wear on these harnesses....


I am shocked as well - I have had two arc'teryx vapors that I only retired based on age(not wear and tear). So to have had two new 320s experience unusual wear and tear is amazing...The reinforcement on the leg loop connections became unusually wore prematurely and on my newest one, the stitching and over all workmanship is not what I would expect. Maybe if I was a hardcore climber and wore the harness all of the time, but I don't and it is not my primary harness...mainly because of the first one wearing out on me.

By Mike Larson
From Aurora, CO
4 days ago
Weeping Wall Central Pillar

As to the durability issues, I've used my R-320 exclusively (likely between 70-100 days climbing)for the past 9 months and it still looks new. Have used the haul loop for tag/haul lines on multiple occasions and never have had issues. It is by far the best harness I have ever used when you take into account weight and bulk.


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