im buying a new rope and am curious what everyone loves, hates, would buy again, would not buy again. any feedback really
thanks
matt

ive been thinking mammut serenity/infinity/revelation, petzl nomad, metolius monster, beal stinger.....i climb a lot, mostly trad where i am taking falls on a regular basis. i want something that will last a while.

Love: ropes under 10mm, under $140, 60m.

Hate: ropes over 10mm unless for aid, ropes over $200, brands that are overhyped.

Would like a bicolor, but the extra $ isn't worth it to me.

Best rope I have owned personally is the Beal Booster 9.7, still springy after lots of catches.

Blue water lightning pro 9.7

PMI spire 10.2

I have been a long time fan of Mammut ropes; I simply can't say enough good about how well they hold up. Back in the dirtbag days of 1990 I bought (my first rope) a 50m Mammut that held up very well for 3 seasons (yea, yeah.. i know) between shelf road, turkey rock and garden of the gods climbing. I still have that rope for historical purposes and it looks and handles almost like a new line.

The Eternity(10.0) or Infinity(9.5) both look like excellent ropes. I currently have a Edelweiss On Sight 9.9mm which has been a fantastic rope so far. Very stiff out of the bag but has loosened up nicely with some use.

I have an infinity and love it. Handles like a dream.

The Monster ropes are the best lines I've ever used. The 9.8 is a solid work horse(for cragging and general multi-pitch, I haven't used it on big wall or aid), with great handling, stellar dry treatment, and above average durability. The 9.1(or whatever the skinny line is), performs great as well. It's very supple and the dry treatment still kicks after a ton of climbing in the desert and other dirty/sandy climbing areas. The 9.1 is noticably less durable than the 9.8 but I expected that and think we should all expect that from the skinny lines. On both of my current monster ropes the middle marker thread deal wore out within a couple weeks of rock climbing. It's cool when it's new but won't last. Don't expect it to.

The Monster ropes are a bit expensive, but so are most of the major brands primo ropes now. But mine and my partners lives hang on it everytime we head out so I don't frett it too much. Better to have something you trust and enjoy than some PoS which makes you want to just sit at home or worse yet, go bouldering.

Jake

Bi color/pattern is a must for me.

I have really liked my Sterling Evolution 10.2 and my Maxim Glider 10.2. For me, stiffer ropes like these seem to be more managable.

I had an Eidelweiss 9.9 and I did not like it too much but it was inexpensive. It gets tangled easier and is not as durable as the other two mentioned.

I've had very good experience with Mammut ropes in terms of handling and durability.

Mammut ropes -- I have owned several and wouldn't go to any other rope -- excellent quality.

I am a huge supporter of Mammut ropes.

I used to have the SuperSafe (10.2). This rope is a workhorse and after many years mine still looks like its only a season old. I retired it out only because of age. I replaced it with the Eternity (10) and I honestly am not as happy as I was hoping. I find the rope twists on me a lot, even after countless flakes both out climbing and sitting on the couch trying to work it out. I also am finding that it shows wear more quickly than I hoped. Yes we have been climbing on it a lot, but it is deff. showing more wear than I expected at this point.

Hope this helps some.

P.S. If you plan to use a reverso in the auto locking set up for belaying up seconds\thirds, get a thinner than 10 mm rope. Your arms, back and belay rest will be happy you did.

Preferences on model and diameter are very personal. All of us have our favs. However, in the past few years, I have come to love and require 70 meter lengths. I would not buy one shorter.

Stu

so i just bought a edelweiss onsight arc 9.9mil 70m bi pattern on sale at bent gate.....ill let everyone know how it works out.
thanks for all the feedback!
matt

Stu, how is your Booster 9.7 working out for you? Did you make it back to the black? Greg

Greg,

Made it back to the Black, had to hide in the shade, Escape Artist, with Lightning Bolt Crack finish. Also went to the Elephant's Perch and climbed two great long routes, Astro-Elephant and The Fine Line. Then up to Canmore and climbed the 21 pitch sport route on Chinaman's Peak. Overall, the Booster has performed as well as any rope I've used in the past 30 years! Thanks for the great deal.

Stu

I just purchased a Serenity and used it this past month in the Alps. I love it. It may be one of the best ropes I've ever owned. My various partners agreed. It has a very manageable feel to it. It knots real well, it's light, and I dig the orange color.

john, what do you not like about your edelweiss ropes?
anyone else having problems with edelwiess ropes?

This same trip I took along a single Edelweiss 8mm Discover. We beat the shit out of it on five classic routes ( Festy Ridge, Mittrellegi Ridge, the standard route on the Jungfrau...ect.) and it held up real well for what it's worth. And I dig the cool purple color.

Same here... no problems at all with my Edelweiss. It's holding up very well.