By PatrickChicago From Chicago, Il (and Manitou Sprgs Oct 11, 2008
| I'm pulling out an old rope and I'm checking it for dead spots, and I realize I don't exactly know what a dead spot feels like- So far the whole rope feels consistently supple, and I think it's fine, but I'm just curious what I should really be looking for.
Related question- am I nuts for climbing on a five+ year old rope that's been sitting in a backpack in a garage for four years? I'm quite sure it hasn't been around any battery acid, but one never knows 100% for sure, you know... |  |
By Marc Horan From Lafayette, CO Oct 11, 2008
| I wouldn't call you nuts, but I personally wouldn't do it.
Especially because you say:
Patrick wrote: I'm quite sure it hasn't been around any battery acid, but one never knows 100% for sure, you know...
--Marc |  |
By PatrickChicago From Chicago, Il (and Manitou Sprgs Oct 11, 2008
| Well I kept it off the ground, well away from the "chemicals" in the garage. In other words, I am sure it was well away from the harmful stuff, as much as anyone can be sure.
Okay, mostly I'm too broke to buy a new rope...
Maybe I'll be hitting up REI in the morning. |  |
By Kevin Stricker From Evergreen, CO Oct 11, 2008
| Dead spots are when the core feels soft and limp, and usually occur from severe falls not age. If a rope is protected from the elements ( mostly UV) they can last longer than 5 years. Although a garage is not the best spot to store a rope it shouldn't be a problem if it was kept in a pack away from chemicals.
Although I do not use it for hard leads, I have a rope over 5 years old that looks pretty good and I do not feel it warrants retirement...yet. |  |
By John J. Glime From Salt Lake City, UT Oct 11, 2008
| Personally, I wouldn't worry too much Patrick. I've seen 10 year old ropes that do just fine. It really depends more on what kind of abuse the rope has seen. However, no one will tell you it is okay to climb on a rope that is more than 3 years old, but I know plenty of people who do.
Dead spots are pretty easy to find, however I am not convinced that they create a dangerously weaker rope. Pinch the rope together with your fingers creating an upside down U. As you go along the length of the rope, sometimes the u becomes more of a ll, as in, the rope lays flat against itself, and the u part closes. (I have no idea if that makes any sense to a reader.) What it really means is that the sheath has been damaged in some way, however, every time I have cut the rope to investigate, the inner strands have been fine. |  |
By PatrickChicago From Chicago, Il (and Manitou Sprgs Oct 11, 2008
| Thanks for the help John, that actually makes fine sense. There are no deadspots, it feels fine, and the sheath isn't very worn. I think I'm going to use it, especially since I think I'm only going to be top-roping. |  |
By Marc Horan From Lafayette, CO Oct 11, 2008
| PatrickChicago wrote: Thanks for the help John, that actually makes fine sense. There are no deadspots, it feels fine, and the sheath isn't very worn. I think I'm going to use it, especially since I think I'm only going to be top-roping.
If you're only using it for top-roping I wouldn't worry about it; the forces involved in normal TRing are significantly less than lead falling.
--Marc |  |
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