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Rope dead spots

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By PatrickChicago
From Chicago, Il (and Manitou Sprgs
Oct 11, 2008
Warming up in fall at the pass.  Nothing like taking pictures of yourself.

I'm pulling out an old rope and I'm checking it for dead spots, and I realize I don't exactly know what a dead spot feels like- So far the whole rope feels consistently supple, and I think it's fine, but I'm just curious what I should really be looking for.

Related question- am I nuts for climbing on a five+ year old rope that's been sitting in a backpack in a garage for four years? I'm quite sure it hasn't been around any battery acid, but one never knows 100% for sure, you know...

By Marc Horan
From Lafayette, CO
Oct 11, 2008
the end is in sight, just a few more miles of copperheads to go!

I wouldn't call you nuts, but I personally wouldn't do it.

Especially because you say:

Patrick wrote:
I'm quite sure it hasn't been around any battery acid, but one never knows 100% for sure, you know...


--Marc

By PatrickChicago
From Chicago, Il (and Manitou Sprgs
Oct 11, 2008
Warming up in fall at the pass.  Nothing like taking pictures of yourself.

Well I kept it off the ground, well away from the "chemicals" in the garage. In other words, I am sure it was well away from the harmful stuff, as much as anyone can be sure.

Okay, mostly I'm too broke to buy a new rope...

Maybe I'll be hitting up REI in the morning.

By Kevin Stricker
From Evergreen, CO
Oct 11, 2008
Noah's first rope...kinda.

Dead spots are when the core feels soft and limp, and usually occur from severe falls not age. If a rope is protected from the elements ( mostly UV) they can last longer than 5 years. Although a garage is not the best spot to store a rope it shouldn't be a problem if it was kept in a pack away from chemicals.

Although I do not use it for hard leads, I have a rope over 5 years old that looks pretty good and I do not feel it warrants retirement...yet.

By John J. Glime
From Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 11, 2008
bird? no.  plane? no.  me? oh yeah.

Personally, I wouldn't worry too much Patrick. I've seen 10 year old ropes that do just fine. It really depends more on what kind of abuse the rope has seen. However, no one will tell you it is okay to climb on a rope that is more than 3 years old, but I know plenty of people who do.

Dead spots are pretty easy to find, however I am not convinced that they create a dangerously weaker rope. Pinch the rope together with your fingers creating an upside down U. As you go along the length of the rope, sometimes the u becomes more of a ll, as in, the rope lays flat against itself, and the u part closes. (I have no idea if that makes any sense to a reader.) What it really means is that the sheath has been damaged in some way, however, every time I have cut the rope to investigate, the inner strands have been fine.

By PatrickChicago
From Chicago, Il (and Manitou Sprgs
Oct 11, 2008
Warming up in fall at the pass.  Nothing like taking pictures of yourself.

Thanks for the help John, that actually makes fine sense. There are no deadspots, it feels fine, and the sheath isn't very worn. I think I'm going to use it, especially since I think I'm only going to be top-roping.

By Marc Horan
From Lafayette, CO
Oct 11, 2008
the end is in sight, just a few more miles of copperheads to go!

PatrickChicago wrote:
Thanks for the help John, that actually makes fine sense. There are no deadspots, it feels fine, and the sheath isn't very worn. I think I'm going to use it, especially since I think I'm only going to be top-roping.


If you're only using it for top-roping I wouldn't worry about it; the forces involved in normal TRing are significantly less than lead falling.

--Marc


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