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Petzl Reverso3

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By Greg Speer
From Fort Collins, CO
Jun 11, 2008
Gee I wonder why they named this route after an enema syringe of all things. . .?

I'm getting ready to purchase a BD ATC Guide but was wondering if anyone has any experience or comments about the new Reverso. It looks very similar to the Guide with slight variations. Does this represent an improvement over the Guide?

By Darren Mabe
Jun 11, 2008
sunset self-caricature

saw a pretty cool video demo on the petzl site for the reverso3.
pretty cool feature to unweight/lower the follower, can fit a biner through the hole. different from the ATCguide. lighter too. petzl always makin good stuff. now imagine if they put their heads together and made some cams!

looks like its a cross between a ATCguide and trango B52.

i love my atc guide though.

By doug s
From Boulder, CO
Jun 11, 2008
How I Send

Greg,
The ATC Guide is bomber, I have been using one for a couple of years and have found it to be the most versatile belay device I have owned (including a Trango BRD) It has only one weakness, the weight. The benefits of the Reverso3 will be it is considerably lighter and it takes a key-lock biner in the front notch to lower (instead of a girth hitched sling like the ATC Guide)

Well, hopefully that helped a little,
Doug

By jack roberts
Jun 11, 2008

Unless you need such a device right away, if I were you I would wait to make your purchase.

The new Reverso is lighter and smaller than the Guide ATC plus it allows you to belay with a wider range of diameter ropes. That, plus the fact that you can slip a carabiner into the lowering hole quickly makes it a more useful and lower profile belay device. I think it is supposed to be in stores July 1st. While I haven't seen or used the finished version I have seen and used the final prototype and I like it more than my Guide ATC.

Jack

By Joseph P. Crotty
From Westminster, CO
Jun 11, 2008
Chilling at Bell Buttress in Boulder Canyon.

Greg Speer wrote:
Does this represent an improvement over the Guide?


I don't know. I had a first generation ATC Guide for a year and dropped it off of a route (i.e., I am really good at dropping essential gear off of routes). I purchased a second generation ATC Guide, with the beefier teeth, and my only complaint is it can be hard to feed and take in rope (e.g., 10.2) while belaying due to the bigger teeth. It does provide more friction on rappels and holding falls.

Can't wait to check out the new Reverso.

By Mark Cushman
From Erie, CO
Jun 11, 2008
Leading Diamond In The Crack (5.6) at the Red

doug s wrote:
The benefits of the Reverso3 will be it is considerably lighter and it takes a key-lock biner in the front notch to lower (instead of a girth hitched sling like the ATC Guide)

The Reverso3 is lighter.

You can release an ATC Guide with a nut tool in the front notch instead of a sling. It works like a lever and gives you some decent control while lowering.

The newer ATC Guides don't work very well on ropes that are well over 10mm. I have a 9.5 and it's great for that diameter, but virtually impossible to use it in plaquette mode with a 10.5 and also a pain to rap with. The older ATC Guides provided more clearance for those diameter ropes, it would be interesting to see if the Reverso3 worked smoothly for ropes over 10mm.

Having said that, I won't be buying a Reverso3 over my ATC Guide.

By Galibier_Numero_Un
From Erie, CO
Jun 11, 2008

Joseph P. Crotty wrote:
I purchased a second generation ATC Guide, with the beefier teeth, and my only complaint is it can be hard to feed and take in rope (e.g., 10.2) while belaying due to the bigger teeth. It does provide more friction on rappels and holding falls. Can't wait to check out the new Reverso.


There's a good dialog on rope diameters and the ATC (both XP and Guide) in this thread:

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/climbing_gear_reviews/gear_>>>>>

My Guide has slots that are a bit narrower than my XP which is admittedly a different model year. I noted in a shop recently that the slots are still a different width.

Cheers,
Thom

By James Beissel
From Boulder, CO
Jun 11, 2008
Ghostride da whip!

The Reverso 3 might be lighter, but isn't a little extra mass beneficial for dissipating heat?

My old Reverso used to get so hot on rappel when I would stop I could practically watch the sheath fibers melting, not to mention the branding iron burns I'd get if I happened to brush against it. Not so much a problem with the ATC Guide.

By Darren Mabe
Jun 11, 2008
sunset self-caricature

good point. AND not to mention the typical reverso-razor-blading...

By Joseph P. Crotty
From Westminster, CO
Jun 11, 2008
Chilling at Bell Buttress in Boulder Canyon.

Darren Mabe wrote:
good point. AND not to mention the typical reverso-razor-blading...


Check the new design, pretty much an ATC Guide in green. It won't "razor-blade" like the old Reverso models did. The only main difference I see is the 90 degree shift in the orientation of the biner attachment point for using it in auto-lock mode. The release hole looks a tad bigger then BD model.

By vegastradguy
From Henderson, NV
Jun 11, 2008
Vegastradguy follows the crux pitch of Western Swing on Windy Peak.

something to note- BD designed the guide before most of the smaller carabiners came out...so, if you really want to put a carabiner through the release hole, an Oz or Nano will fit just fine. of course, the point of the hole being too small for a carabiner was to keep folks from using that as a hang point.

By Mark Nelson
From Coniferous, CO
Jun 11, 2008
 In a zoo in California, a mother tiger gave birth to a rare set of triplet tiger cubs.    Unfortunately, due to complications in the pregnancy, the cubs were born prematurely and due to their tiny size, they died shortly after birth. <br /><br />The mother tiger after recovering from the delivery, suddenly started to decline in health, although physically she was fine. The veterinarians felt that the loss of her litter had caused the tigress to fall into a depression. The doctors decided that if the tigress could surrogate another mother's cubs, perhaps she would improve. <br /><br />After checking with many other zoos across the country, the depressing news was that there were no tiger cubs of the right age to introduce to the mourning  mother. The veterinarians decided to try something that had never been  tried in a zoo environment. Sometimes a mother of one species will take on the care of a different species. The only "orphans" that could be found quickly, were a litter of weaner pigs.  The zoo keepers and vets wrapped the piglets in tiger skin and placed the babies around the mother tiger.<br />

you know, I wouldn't be surprised to see some sort of patent-design issue with bd.

R3 indicates a range 2 strands @ 7.5mm & greater; 1 strand @ 8.9mm & greater -- with good workability for 10.5 and acceptable workability for 11mm.

ATC-G indicates a range 7.7mm to 11mm.


I've found 8.5mm to 10.2mm is workable for me for any device other than the Reversino which is workable for my 7.7 twins - but not for the larger diameters.

By John Langston
Jun 11, 2008

I don't see a patent issue arising. The GI-GI was the same thing and there were steel plates prior to that and they all are the same idea.

I hope the Petzl work with thicker ropes. I'm limited to new and under 10 with the guide.

By Darren Mabe
Jun 12, 2008
sunset self-caricature

i will also chime in that my ATC guide is a pain in the ass with ropes bigger than 9.8. however, it is awesome with my 9.2.

glad to see that the R3 has a bit more material so wont blade as quickly. i know that any device will do that if you rap on it a bunch. every normal ATC i owned did the same thing. heck, my first gri gri has blades on it.

By Greg Speer
From Fort Collins, CO
Jun 12, 2008
Gee I wonder why they named this route after an enema syringe of all things. . .?

Thanks all for the comments. I did watch the video on the Petzl website. I think I'll wait until the R3 is available so I can scrutinize them side by side. With a company like Petzl one has got to think they believe they've built a better mousetrap.

By jahlgrim
Jul 10, 2008

Anyone get their hands on one yet? I held one the other day but haven't used one. Just curious.

By lucaskrajnik
From Trying to go to santa cruz
Jul 10, 2008
My sweet camp pancake!

I also wanted and rev 3 but in a hurry to the crag had to buy atc guide..pretty sweet rig

By Mike Heilman
From Charlotte, NC
Jul 10, 2008
Smith Rock

I have found the Reverso 3 to work well in autoblock mode and on rappel with a 10.5 line. No noticable difference from my ATC Guide.

By Greg Speer
From Fort Collins, CO
Jul 10, 2008
Gee I wonder why they named this route after an enema syringe of all things. . .?

Mike,

Is there any noticeable difference when belaying a climber on toprope and rapidly taking up slack? I have found that with the ATC that the teeth in the grooves can be a little grabby, especially with a thicker rope like a 10.5. Supposedly the R3 improves on this.

By John Fodor
Jul 10, 2008

I traded in my old reverso for a new one. I like the way it handles with thin ropes. I climbed the other day on a 10.6 the other day and I had a hell of a time pulling/pushing/feeding rope through in auto lock mode. Rappelling with the larger diameter rope was a bit of work for the 50-75ft then it was pretty smooth. I’m not sure if like it more then the old style.

By Mike Heilman
From Charlotte, NC
Jul 10, 2008
Smith Rock

Greg,
The Reverso 3 worked well on top rope belay also. I recommend this divise mainly because it is easier to lower someone in autoblock mode. I don't think there are any negative trade offs by this improved feature of the Reverso.

By TP in SLC
Jul 10, 2008
The mad bomber!

I think it's harder to belay 2 at once with the Guide (ropes seem to bunch more, at least for me). While the Reverso (new or old) has always treated me right.

By Jean Goldsborough
From New London, NH
Jul 11, 2008

I'm with John Fodor on this. I've been using an original Reverso for years loving the auto-locking feature for belaying a second with all diameter ropes. I was so excited about the new Reverso3 when it came out so I ran out and got one. Belaying a second with the new one on a 10.2 Sterling rope is quite the effort. I have a partner who uses a BD ATC Guide so I'll compare it with that. I might just stick with my regular Reverso though

By mschlocker
From San Diego, CA
Aug 6, 2008
FA of the tree in front of my place.  C1 with my new adjustable dasies.

I hate how much friction is in my ATC guide in autoblock mode. I went to the store with a well worn rope and my worn ATC guide.

I set up an autoblock with the Reverso, Reverso3, and my own personal well used ATC Guide.

The Guide actually had the smoothest pull! I think this is due to the wear. I forget which of the Petzl devices had the most drag, they were all 3 relatively close.

One interesting note is the Reverso3 autoblock hanger is 90 degrees to the Reverso and Guide. This will make the device sit sideways to the cliff instead of out. Also, you can (try to) lower with a 'biner with the guide, just like the Reverso3. I tried this using my Guide and I couldn't get enough leverage to lower so the method is suspect for me.

I left the store with my used ATC guide. I guess these things get better with age.

By brenta
From Boulder, CO
Aug 6, 2008
Cima Margherita and Cima Tosa in the Dolomiti di Brenta.  October 1977.

mschlocker wrote:
I hate how much friction is in my ATC guide in autoblock mode.

How thick was the rope?

mschlocker wrote:
Also, you can (try to) lower with a 'biner with the guide, just like the Reverso3. I tried this using my Guide and I couldn't get enough leverage to lower so the method is suspect for me.

The eyelet of the Reverso 3 is significantly wider than the Guide's. I found that you need the right biner for proper operation. Specifically, a large keylock HMS is what works best with the Reverso 3 for me.

By Jean Goldsborough
From New London, NH
Aug 7, 2008

FYI, a couple of weeks after my last post I tried the Reverso3 and the ATC guide again SIDE BY SIDE ON THE SAME ROPE - another Sterling rope, a 10.1mm - it's just this rope is a little newer than the one I had first belayed with which was comparable.
Huge difference! The Reverso3 belayed the second with ease and I rapped on it fine and felt very little difference between it and the ATC Guide. I've also belayed with it using my Sterling doubles and of course it is effortless with those. So I am happy again and will continue to use the Reverso3 but carry other devices if I think I will be using someone else's rope that is thicker or older.


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